Hair Salon Owners Are Making It Work During the Pandemic

toNow that we're more than six months into the COVID-19 pandemic, many are itching to dip their toes into some type of "normal" living, even if our sense of normal will be different for a while. For some, that includes indulging in beauty services, like finally getting those roots touched up and split ends cut off. 

Whether you're going back to work, doing socially distanced Bumble dates, or taking non-stop Zoom calls, applying temporary at-home hair color and giving yourself a trim only goes so far. But being able to go to a hair salon — if it's even safe to do so — varies depending on where you live, not to mention what day of the week it is. Government mandates change due to factors such as infection level, often giving salons little notice of when they can open or when they need to close. It can get complicated, as mandates not only change by state but also by county.

To add another layer, hair salons aren't just open or closed. Depending on where you live, hairstylists might only be able to operate outside or they might be at a partial capacity indoors. It's not only based on what the state and local governments say but also on what each owner feels comfortable with for their staff and clients. It's a big decision and something they aren't taking lightly. 

We spoke to owners and hairstylists on the East Coast, West Coast, and the states in between to find out how they're handling the changes and how they're able to service clients outdoors when needed. Not surprisingly, there are more than a few challenges with highlighting hair in a parking lot.

Mandates Change...and Change Again

Each state has its own website with up-to-date information about business re-openings and stay-at-home orders. New York allowed hair salons and barbershops to re-open in late June with restrictions, like only operating at 50 percent capacity. States such as Louisiana and Kentucky have been open in some capacity since mid-May. California, on the other hand, is the only state that opened, closed again, and then opened with restrictions. Stylists — and customers, too — are just trying to keep up.

In mid-March, salons were forced to close under Governor Gavin Newsom's order, as were many states. But in May, they were allowed to reopen with staggered appointments and face coverings suggested. Cases spiked in California, especially Los Angeles County, causing Governor Newsom to close indoor businesses such as hair salons again on July 13. 

While the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) has not provided specific guidance on the re-opening of hair salons, it has made it clear that "indoor spaces are more risky than outdoor spaces where it might be harder to keep people apart and there’s less ventilation." Additionally, preliminary research out of China suggests that the risk of infection outside is much lower than it is indoors because of ventilation.

So, in late July — after examining the available info and taking into account the devastating hit to the beauty industry closures have caused — California released new outdoor guidance for salons, barbershops, and other beauty service providers such as nail salons to operate entirely outdoors. On September 2, with cases decreasing, the state allowed hair salons to go indoors at 25 percent capacity. Confused? Imagine how owners feel, especially those who have salons in more than one county or state.

Outdoor Challenges

"We have been open in Nashville, Boston, New York, and Chicago since June and all with precautions required by the county and CDC at roughly 50 percent capacity. So far, we have not had a known or traced case," says Christine Thompson, colorist and co-founder of Spoke & Weal Salons, which has locations in six different states. Salons in California have been the most challenging, but they made outdoor services work where possible. "Outdoor hair is tricky but possible," she says. "We did set up at the salon in LA, but given the fires up North, we held off in the Bay Area." They put up shades, moved plants outside, power washed, and pulled extension cords to make it work. In LA, the biggest issue was the record-breaking heat. It hit 121 degrees in parts of the county. They switched appointments to earlier or later in the day to work around the overbearing temperatures.

Thompson and her team were ready to head inside (to the air conditioning!) and felt safe doing so when given the green light by the state. Thompson feels optimistic Governor Newsom won't shut salons down again. "As licensed professionals, we are trained in sanitation, especially in preventing the spread of infection and disease," she explains. "We are using sharp objects, blades, irons, water, heat, etc., and touching our guests physically. Pandemic or not, we work in an environment that needs to be cared for at all times." Each hairstylist we spoke with echoed the same sentiment.

Liz Jung, a colorist at a private studio in Los Angeles, set up her indoor/outdoor space to be ready for any and all changes. "Our clients love being outside in the fresh air, but our biggest challenge might be the wind and heat right now," she says. She's adjusted her indoor space to follow CDC and California guidelines, including incorporating masks, temperature checks, and extra sanitizing. She's also gone a step further, asking clients to remove their shoes (and pop on some slippers), adding multiple air purifiers throughout the space, and hiring full-time cleaning staff. Now, finding time to see all her clients when only operating at a 25 percent capacity is the biggest challenge.

For Kari Hill, a colorist at Mèche Salon in Beverly Hills, it was the constant mosquito bites, unwanted animals, and lack of nighttime light that posed some of the biggest issues while working outside. "I set up the trunk of my car as our color room and had a tray with me at all times so I didn’t need much else. I did every hair service you could think of," she says. But it posed more than one challenge, some of which actually felt unsafe. "Let's start with parking issues, passes, street cleaning — literally nothing available. Many challenges and lessons in patience have been learned," she says. Now, she feels safer working inside with restrictions in place.

Heading Inside

Not all hairstylists took their services outside when the governor said they could do so. Hairstylist Ted Gibson, co-owner of Starring salon in Los Angeles, decided against doing hair outside for a variety of reasons. He feels his "smart salon" was built to be socially distanced before it was needed, with each client in a "pod" separated from the person next to them. All appointments are scheduled online so there's less interaction with staff. He feels much safer in a space he can control than doing hair at a client's home or outdoors. 

"I think there were some salons that were able to [operate outside] because of their location and having space to do it," he says. "We have garbage dumpsters and a parking lot that has risers for cars to lift them up and down. Our clientele would not be interested in having their hair cut outside by the dumpster." He also notes the 100-degree heat as a deterrent. "As a licensed hairdresser, I know at Starring we are taking every measure to keep not only our staff safe but also our guests," he says.

In a controversial move, Gibson and his partner Jason Backe decided to open their salon indoors on August 17 despite the mandate by the governor. They had a press conference to announce it. "[It] was not only important for our small business but for all small businesses that are suffering because of not being open for over six months," he says. Gibson is happy with the current 25 percent mandate and believes they will be able to stay open with safety precautions.

Outside of California and New York, many salon owners we spoke to are deciding what works best for their clients and staff, often giving customers the choice of inside or outdoors. Maria Elizabeth, owner of Salon deZen in Alexandria, VA, is giving her clients multiple options so they can decide their own risk. "We have been offering at-home hair services where we meet the client at their home and do the service in their front yard or on their porch," she says. "Some clients have run extension cords out so that we are able to blowout and style their hair, while others prefer to opt-out of the styling portion of the service." She has been doing this even though Virginia has allowed salons to open at half-capacity since their early Phase 1 plan. Virginia hair salons are still open, though the guidelines now don't specify the capacity requirements — just rules on physical distancing and hygiene. Maria Elizabeth is keeping it at 75 percent at the most. "Public health equals economic health and our community is taking this pandemic seriously," she says.

Others feel completely safe doing hair indoors, as long as everyone in the salon wears a mask. Jennifer Mendoza, owner of Flourish Hair & Beauty Salon in Chicago, IL, doesn't feel the pandemic has affected her business. "I'm the only one who works and performs services so it's been easy keeping everything clean," she explains. Salons are allowed to be open with limited capacity in Chicago.

The New Normal

Regardless of where you live and what your state mandate is, each of us has to decide for ourselves what risk we're willing to take when it comes to nonessential services. Even though hair and nails might feel essential, it's obviously not the same as going grocery shopping or to the doctor's office. There is no hard-and-fast answer to risk assessment in a global pandemic. If you have one of the underlying medical conditions noted by the CDC (such as Type 2 diabetes mellitus and certain heart conditions) that put you at risk for a severe case of COVID-19 or you're an older adult, it's important to speak with your doctor about taking your own personal precautions.

Mandates for beauty services, especially hair and nails, are going to continue to change. But be sure to reach out to your hairstylists before you go to ensure they're wearing a mask — at the very least. "Clients should be asking if the hairstylists always wear protective gear including gloves and masks, and if everything used in the salon is scrubbed and sanitized after each client," dermatologist, Sapna Palep, founder of Spring Street Dermatology in New York City, tells Allure. "The chairs should also be wiped down thoroughly with antiseptic cloths." She notes that getting your hair done outside is safer, but either way, salons should be taking the temperatures of all staff and clients on a daily basis, and staff and clients should be screened for possible COVID-19 exposure.

Ideally, salons will be able to continue operating at some capacity across the country, depending on the state's COVID-19 infection rate. Keep an eye on your state's website and governor's Twitter account for the most updated information. And no matter what, wear a damn mask.

Read more about COVID-19 and the beauty industry:

• Is It Safe to Visit Salons Right Now?

• Even a Pandemic Can't Keep the Wealthy From Their Botox House Calls

• Sheltering in Place Has Changed the Way We Shower

Now, watch how this dermatologist's routine changed during the pandemic:

You can follow Elizabeth on Instagram. Don't forget to subscribe to Allure's newsletter to stay up to date on all things beauty.