The extraordinary rewilding of Knepp Castle

At Knepp Castle in Sussex, conservation pioneers Isabella Tree and Charlie Burrell have abandoned industrial farming practices and allowed nature to take over their 3,500-acre estate, with remarkable results.
The rewilding of Knepp Castle Isabella Tree and Charlie Burrell's Sussex estate
Dean Hearne

Given the loveliness of this scene, I wonder how easy it is to equate the picturesque restored parkland with the untamed nature of the rest of the estate, and how others have viewed Charlie and Isabella’s rewilding project. There was certainly a ‘fear of change’, says Isabella, and a ‘desire to preserve what is considered as traditional, rural countryside with an aesthetically pleasing, tightly ordered landscape’. Rewilding, she adds, ‘was considered an abandonment of our land, and in some ways an affront to the efforts of every self-respecting farmer’. Now, however, in light of their success in regenerating biodiversity at Knepp, critics are being gradually silenced.

While the castle and gardens are not open to visitors, there are some 18 miles of public rights of way criss-crossing the land. Central to operations is the safari centre, which runs morning and afternoon wildlife tours and numerous specialist days for the general public to enjoy. The centre also doubles as base camp and shop for Charlie and Isabella’s collection of luxuriously appointed shepherd’s huts, tents, yurts and – new for 2018 – a treehouse, all of which can be rented for upwards of two nights between April and October. It is here I meet many of the team – the ecologists, the stockmen, the environmentalists – who have contributed to the rewilding of Knepp, before climbing into the Pinzgauer for a game drive.

The safari experience is unlike any other, except for the fact that there are unexpected moments when the West Sussex countryside does look strangely like the African bush. I half expect the tall head of a giraffe to appear above a thicket or a herd of zebra to come cantering by. The big five here, though, are Tamworth pigs, Exmoor ponies, Longhorn cows, and red and fallow deer – all of which I see grazing happily in their natural habitat. The small five – purple emperor butterflies, turtle doves, Bechstein’s bats, peregrine falcons and nightingales elude me, though I catch a whisper of song from the last. And then I am back in my car, passing a McDonald’s Drive-Thru within a couple of miles, and thereafter hitting the traffic-clogged A24 en route back to London. Sublime, I think, and at once completely ridiculous.

For more information about the safaris or staying at Knepp, visit kneppsafaris.co.uk. The shepherd’s huts, tents, yurts and treehouse cost from £160 for a two-night mid-week stay. ‘Wilding’ by Isabella Tree is published by Picador (£20)