DINING

Get to know the wines of Alsace

Al Vuona

For many wine lovers, something known as pure expression is a very desirable trait. In other words, does the wine through both taste and smell have a connection with the parcels of land from which the grapes are grown? That’s why I often gravitate toward the Alsace region of France, where the wines most definitely embody that very notion.

The wines of Alsace, which is located in eastern France, are made in a style that has a strong connection to that region. These wines often incorporate elements of pure fruit, flowers or spice, while every sip reveals fresh, sharp, clean flavors. For years now, this unique characteristic has attracted a dedicated following of wine devotees who have embraced Alsatian wines. While the majority of the wines made are white, an occasional red such as pinot noir will surprise you with its remarkable delicacy and finesse. Aromatic and well-balanced with impressive acidity and structure, these wines are remarkably food-friendly.

I can talk about the wines of Alsace all day long, but rather than bore you with that, here are some personal favorites that are locally available and reasonably priced:

Trimbach 2014 Reserve Pinot Gris. This is such a delightful all-season wine. Light gold in color with fresh white flowers and citrus fruit aromas, it immediately grabs your attention. On the palate ripe tropical fruits such as lime, papaya and peach flavors are abundant, along with bracing acidity. Though capable of standing on its own, this wine should be properly chilled and then paired with fresh garden salad, fish and poultry dishes. $20

Willm 2014 Pinot Blanc Reserve. Right off the bat you’ll notice the luscious fruit flavors of pear, kiwi and ripe lemon that are nicely interwoven. The wine has a somewhat clean, sharp edge that is attributed to the vibrant acidity that keeps it fresh and lively. This lip-smacking wine is just perfect with sliced chilled pear or assorted hard cheeses. $15

Domaine Ostertag 2016, Les Jardins, Pinot Noir. Opens with aromas of fresh strawberry and rose petal. The sharp acidity adds a certain vibrancy to the red fruit flavors. All of which leads to a crisp, tart finish that leaves an indelible impression on one's palate. Ostertag is a highly regarded producer, and the proof is in the glass. $27

The Albert Boxler 2015 Pinot Blanc is a lovely wine that displays subtle notes of honey, apple and lemon tart. Though somewhat light-textured, on the palate this medium-bodied offering has good structure along with a smooth mouth-feel. The finish is persistent with vibrant acidity. $31

Lucien Albrecht Non-Vintage Cremant d’Alsace Brut. This terrific bubbly is light-bodied with delicate aromas of lemon, grapefruit and lime. On the palate, a soft, creamy texture and crisp, balanced acidity leave an indelible impression. Chill a bottle and pair it with fresh seasonal fruit, seafood or garden salad. $22

While these five wines represent but a small fraction of what Alsace has to offer it is indeed a very good place to start. Cheers!

Wine of the Week: Saint Clair 2017 (origin series) Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand. This wine is bursting with intense flavors of guava, pineapple and grapefruit. Vibrant and racy with a clean, sharp finish, along with balanced acidity. A chilled bottle of this wine is just perfect for a warm, summer evening. $28