Maria Grazia Chiuri unveiled her autumn-winter 2018-2019 haute couture collection for Dior in the gardens of the Musée Rodin in Paris.
Is it possible to stay faithful to the strict rules decreed by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture** while breaking them down to create a new order? These are the questions that Maria Grazia Chiuri raises in this autumn-winter 2018-2019 haute couture collection.
Couture is an example of the avant-garde, an art form that develops through imagination. A reflection that cultivates the boldness to repeating codified gestures while seeking to challenge and overturn them. Because couture today is, above all, a conceptual gesture. Like a Marcel Duchamp ready-made, says Chiuri.
Haute couture offers the opportunity to wear a quality that’s unique, to adapt a perfect work to one’s own body. Maria Grazia Chiuri returns to the fundamentals and designs suits in which the Bar jacket develops batwing sleeves. The real transgression lies in referring to the rules for use while twisting their syntax.
The powdery palette (brick, green, pink and orange), interacting with nude, colors the clothes but also the accessories – refined costume jewelry, veil and hats – in a complementary continuity of the body on which couture places the emphasis.
Evening dresses, rendered dazzling by their mix of pleating and layering, contrast with simple bustiers which offer a surprising dissonance. The sculptural form of a red silk dress sewn from a single piece of fabric opens the way to a series of majestic and intimate creations, both restrained and explosive: couture, in the process, becoming a psychological place of female resistance.
