Seven Plus-Size Fashion Trailblazers on the Future of the Industry and How Much It’s Changed

Fashion’s future is already here. This September, we ask What Is Fashion Now? by exploring the people, concepts, and ideas that are pushing us forward in times of unprecedented change. In this story, we talk with seven plus-size fashion trailblazers about how far the industry has come and what they hope to see change. 

There is no longer a question about whether or not plus-size fashion is “worth the cost.” Over the past decade, trailblazers within the industry have proven it is, growing the market, now worth more than $21 billion, and sparking an intersectional movement that cannot be silenced.

But the journey to now has been far more complex. Yes, the success of mainstream models like Ashley Graham and Paloma Elsesser has brought size inclusivity to the runways. But since 2008, numerous individuals — mostly Black women — have paved a path for the next generation of size inclusive advocates, like me, to follow. Instead of just fighting for a seat at preexisting tables, they threw caution to the wind and created their own. These “tables” established what is now not only an immensely profitable market, but a community that will stop at nothing, not even amid a pandemic, to bring much-needed change to the industry and society at large.

Their determination and fearlessness is what inspired me to launch my own table this summer, called The Power of Plus, a size-inclusive digital community aimed at proving that fashion is for every body. The fashion industry has been tasked with finding a new normal in the time of COVID-19, so Teen Vogue spoke with seven plus-size trailblazers — designer and influencer Gabi Gregg, And I Get Dressed creator Kellie Brown, model Tess Holliday, CurvyCon cofounder CeCe Olisa, 11 Honore in-house design director Danielle Williams-Eke, Henning founder and former fashion editor Lauren Chan, and photographer Rochelle Brock — about the work they’ve done over the past decade, the push for luxury and sustainable size-inclusive options, and how they’re passing the torch to the next generation of game-changers.

Teen Vogue: Although the roots of plus-size fashion are in the 1980s and ’90s, much of what we have today is because of what each one of you have contributed over the past decade. What inspired you to create your own tables within the industry?

Gabi Gregg: When I launched my blog in 2008, the conversation from the internet forums I was in was focused on body positivity, which definitely changed my life, but it wasn't as focused on fashion, and so I thought that element was really missing. We were creating our own community and creating our own place at the table. That being said, I still felt like we weren’t taken seriously by the fashion world. So in 2011, I created the first-ever plus-size conference for bloggers called YFF Con, and that was the first time that plus-size influencers connected with brands in a real way.

Cece Olisa: I launched my blog in 2008 as well, and I started my blog anonymously because I was insecure about the way I looked. I was in this community of dating bloggers and I was the only plus-size girl there. Since then, what has been the impetus to any business that I’ve built to serve plus-size women is that, for me, being plus was always an isolating experience. I didn't have any plus-size friends in high school, college, work; I was the only one. So the minute social media introduced me to the women on this roundtable, my life changed.

Tess Holliday: I started by sharing my modeling photos on Facebook, which turned into a blog where I talked about how frustrating it was that people were shaming me because of my size, because of the way I looked, because of what I was choosing to wear. So in 2013, out of frustration, I created #EffYourBeautyStandards, just as an encouragement for other people to be whoever they want to be and present themselves how they want.

Teen Vogue: Over the past decade, the plus-size fashion industry has completely transformed into what is now a $21 billion market. There’s still a massive amount of work to be done, but what change have you personally seen has had the biggest impact?

GG: It’s gone from just tokenizing, which was never good, to actually having deeper conversations about size inclusivity and representation. I've seen a change in attitude even since Lizzo has gained popularity. I swear, walking into rooms after Lizzo got super popular and super famous, I've been seen differently because, for whatever reason, people need to see it done first before they can trust you.

Lauren Chan: A big change broadly that I've seen is the movement away from allowing one plus-size person to be the star of the entire industry and that person having the body of the plus-size beauty ideal. There was this prerequisite of an hourglass body, thin limbs, and thin face to even have the chance at being the one person who was going to hit it big. I think one of the most beautiful and impactful things of late is that we're seeing more diverse body types and the way that people are, through fashion, “allowed” to be plus size.

Kellie Brown: The biggest impact to me is the available-to-consumer product that is available. We’ve shown brands that we want clothing that is not dumbed down, that is not super simple. We want and will invest in clothing.

Danielle Williams-Eke: For a long time, plus-size has been its own aesthetic, in a sense, and not like you could have high-end or contemporary or basics or casual. It was just this one thing. I think with more brands coming along, with designers getting on board and extending their sizes, we've been able to really expand that assortment. I don't just want this thing in the corner or back of the store; I want up front, I want the same selection that my straight size counterparts have.

CO: As cofounder of The CurvyCon, my lens is always just a little bit more from a 50,000-foot view, and from that, I know that having clothes to put on your back that reflect your personality and who you are should be, like, a basic thing. I have a cute outfit, therefore I can run for office, be a lawyer, be president, etc. One of our biggest moves was bringing The CurvyCon to New York Fashion Week. And a few seasons ago, Lauren gave me her seat to the 11 Honore show. I was in line with this woman, not a blogger, not an industry person, but an everyday, plus-size woman from San Francisco who stayed in New York after CurvyCon to do fashion week. Why did she think she could do that? Because we do that, we post about it online, and that inspired her to [do it] too.

Teen Vogue: Many have started to push for more sustainable size-inclusive options, especially amid the pandemic. But those options are incredibly hard to come by, and many fat people have been shamed for turning to fast fashion brands for clothing. In your experience, what is the fast fashion dilemma currently plaguing our community?

GG: Obviously, fast fashion is problematic on a really global scale. But I do think fast fashion has been some of the only brands to offer plus-sizes in a trendy way. There’s so much shaming around people buying fast fashion, but fat people often can't shop slow fashion because it's either too expensive or it doesn't fit them. I think there's something to be said for the fact that these fast fashion brands offer our size.

KB: I feel like the mid-range brands have truly been missing the mark. As you said, Gabi, the super-fast, accessible, $20-25 range has really led the charge. And on the flip side of that, you jump over to the luxury side, but everyone in the middle is failing.

Teen Vogue: Many plus-size designers have created their own tables by launching their own lines. While we certainly are still pushing preexisting brands to diversify themselves, it’s even more important to support those within our community who are making clothes for us, by us.

Rochelle Brock: A lot of people in our community don't have the privilege of having a personal style because that option was never really offered. So we see people in Louis Vuitton and Gucci and wish we could wear that, even though brands probably would never make that size. People see that and want to be included, which is why it's so important to have independent plus-size brands so if you want high-end, you can buy it from the people who actually care about you.

LC: I designed the Glamour x Lane Bryant collaboration years ago. We did 10 collections, and I was never allowed to have a pant without an elastic-back waist. At Henning, we figured out a solution that costs $1, where you can fuse the elastic in part and sew it in part to the stretched material and it looks better. But in that room, they would not listen. And the thing that always shocked me the most was how much money went into that project and then, at the last minute, you're not going to listen to the person who has been deemed to be the expert over you?

GG: There’s a reason I believe influencer-led collaborations are always more stylish than what brands put out on their own. It's because we have lived in these bodies and we're just like, “Well, why isn't this available? Let’s make it.”

Teen Vogue: Body positive is an intersectional movement, and plus-size fashion was founded largely on the backs of Black women. How does the fight for racial equality directly play into the push for size-inclusivity?

GG: Black people have been facing police brutality forever. But because everyone's at home, and they're able to actually not be distracted by their everyday lives, they're being forced to pay attention to it and spend time reflecting on their own internalized racism and all of these things. But unfortunately, we're already starting to see activism fatigue and ally fatigue, where people are just like, “Okay, that was hard, and I did it. So I'm done.” So what I'm worried about happening is that like, yes, we're having this conversation now, but how do we continue? And how do we make sure people continue to be aware of these prejudices? And making sure they continue to question their internalized fatphobia and internalized racism? How do we stay at the table now that we finally have a seat at the table?

RB: From a social media perspective, I think, as brands start to be more diversified and younger people are starting to be noticed by these brands, we also have to protect them. Because in our circle, we're forward-thinking. But for the majority of the world, it's not like [that]. They see plus-size people as something that just shouldn't exist. And when brands showcase people on their socials, you get a lot of comments and online bullying.

Teen Vogue: The COVID-19 pandemic is completely shifting and challenging the current fashion landscape. What are your concerns right now for the future of our industry?

LC: In my opinion, the biggest challenge right now is that we stand to lose years of progression on the other side of this pandemic. With these big brands closing and going bankrupt, one of the first things that will be cut from their budgets are “extracurriculars,” and that includes plus-sizes. On the flip side of that, small, independent brands like mine are also having a tough time.

KB: You can be very supportive of the things that you like right now without spending money. We still need to be arming the brands with data. If you are looking at your favorite influencers’ images, click on them, like them, share them, and support in the ways that you can because business is cumulative.

DW: We’re all trying to figure out this new normal, making shifts to our business and our assortment and working with our vendor partners to really make great things happen. It’s really about how to do that in a smart way that makes sense financially, but that doesn't compromise the fit or integrity we’re offering our customers.

CO: They say that the Renaissance came after the plague. So if this is going to be our plague, what's coming next is going to be epic.

Teen Vogue: A large part of being a trailblazer is opening doors for those behind you. How can we each continue to do that on our respective paths?

GG: So much of it really is about amplifying voices. As people who have the privilege and have platforms on this roundtable, we need to be sharing those platforms, amplifying other people, introducing our audiences to other people, and doing what we can to vote with our dollars.

KB: For the people coming behind us to take new opportunities, pay attention to history. Don't just assume that there was always a fatkini, because there wasn't. Pay attention so that you can also carry the torch and keep moving the movement that we've all started.

TH: My biggest advice to the next generation is to not shrink yourself or feel like you need to water down who you are for brands because we are all proof that you can be who you want to be in an authentic and genuine way and make your mark on the world and in your community, whatever community that is.

CO: Keep innovating. Don't just get popular on Instagram and be done. There’s gonna be something in the market that no one else is doing and if it hits you, do it. Don't be afraid to get paid; ask for money. Use the money that you get to buy something from a designer, and keep it moving.

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Want more from Teen Vogue? Check this out: Why This Plus-Size Model Started a Sustainable, Size-Inclusive Athletic Brand