Milos, Greece: the Greek island of the summer
Up until the last few years, the luminous Cycladic island of Milos was a secret destination surreptitiously shared among Greek couples. With more than 70 beaches, considered among the best in the Aegean, the isle where the Louvre’s prized Venus de Milo was found has a fascinating history and spellbinding volcanic landscapes like lunar-like Sarakiniko. With fresh new places to stay, exciting restaurants, and classic waterfront bars, Milos is evolving into one of the Mediterranean’s most sought-after vacay spots.
Where to stay on Milos
1. White Coast Pool Suites
Serving up Cycladic simplicity in all its stark white cubism, White Coast Pool Suites’ clutter-free form echoes the rhythms of the island’s settlements. Set between Sarakiniko beach and the Papafragas caves, this low-key seafront resort has no neighbours. All rooms have ecru polished cement bathrooms, stained oak accents and terraces with ultra-private pools. At Greco-Italian restaurant Bianco, sought-after chef Yiannis Liokas refines a fisherman’s soup with split pea puree, red saffron and golden herring caviar. As night falls, take a seat beside the pool and trace constellations above, with a rosemary-and basil-scented gin cocktail in hand.
Sophie Knight2. Milos Cove
After a bumpy 20-minute drive through archaeological sites and remote wilderness, you reach what feels like the edge of the world. Really, it's the entrance to the isolated Milos Cove Inception Resort. Emerging from the lunar-like landscape, this futuristic piece of architecture was designed by Athens-born Dionisis Sotovikis, who plays with harsh lines and geometric shapes. 42 beige suites are designed to blend into the environment rather than stand out like the typical Cycladic white. Surrounded by colourful volcanic rock of sulphur yellows and pink minerals, the geological references pay homage to the design and earthy energy of the hotel. Obsidian, a rare slick black rock that when sharpened is comparable to glass, can be found scattered in the natural landscape, and has become the symbol of the hotel. The spa even has crystal healing and alternative massage therapy. Every corner is designed to complement the striking landscape, from the reflective windows that mirror the sea views to the infinity pool, carefully moulded into the rockface. With a private pebble beach and rooms with private pools, there's not much reason to leave the hotel. The restaurant is also worth shouting about – it switches between casual dining in the day to fine dining in the evening. Dressed-up guests emerge for sundown cocktails, late-night dancing and star gazing. Sophie Knight
3. Skinopi Lodge
Skinopi Lodge is owner Nausika Georgiadou’s greatest labour of love, three decades after her first encounter with Milos. Her eco-credentialled remote retreat encompasses seven villas sited amid olive trees, lavender and thyme on a slope by the sea above minute Skinopi village. Taking inspiration from traditional fishermen’s houses, Athens-based architecture firm Kokkinou-Kourkoulas designed the stone-built structures so as to blend seamlessly into the scrubby landscape. Air flows through laidback indoor-outdoor living spaces. Decor is purposely sparse, with linen furnishings in dove grey and white adorning bedrooms and lounge areas. When the sun starts to slowly descend into the Aegean, guests settle into acacia deck chairs to quietly savour the spectacle.
TWOEF LONDON4. Terra Mare Suites
This syrma-turned-pirate-like refuge lies in Mytakas, between Sarakiniko and the beachside village of Pachaina. Peeking over a rocky cliff within a narrow cove, Terra Mare Suites is a unique two-level waterfront property that serves extended families particularly well. Youngsters adore the open-plan ground-level suite, catering for up to four adults, for its whitewashed cave-like aesthetic and verandah offering direct sea access. The first-floor suite, which hosts up to three adults, has a bedroom and separate lounge plus a roomy, shaded balcony. Interiors are all soothing monochromatic tones, rattan furniture and driftwood. Bathrooms are hand-moulded and kitchens fully equipped. Stay there if only to let the sea lull you to sleep every night.
5. Volcano Luxury Suites Milos
Set on a hill in Paleochori in southwest Milos, this adults-only retreat has been crafted for couples. And some guests would prefer it be kept a secret. A calming blend of sable, caramel and off white dominates the interior decor of its six intimate suites, all equipped with outdoor hot tubs. Whimsical circular weavings adorn walls above beds and fringed macrame lampshades softly diffuse light, setting the tone for a romantic seaside escape. Generously-sized bathrooms feature charcoal-hued hand-carved Riverstone sinks and Hermes toiletries. A decadent breakfast can be ordered in-room or at Sirocco restaurant, on spectacular Paleochori beach, a two-minute walk away.
6. White Pebble Suites
A bold Greek-Australian female trio is behind the freshest entry in the fishing village of Pollonia, where most of Milos’ boutique hotels are huddled along a shoreline of sand and rock. Architectural studio KKMK fashioned sensual, curved creamy-hued exteriors referencing the island’s lunar-like landscapes on the east coast. The seaside spot's 12 cosy suites are created for lovers, with pale marble, timber and polished cement enhanced with natural textiles, pebble-shaped sinks and wicker accessories. Honeymoon penthouse suites have private terraces with a plunge pool and views of Kimolos island. Add restorative spa treatments like a hot stone massage with indigenous obsidian, seasonal Mediterranean dining and a boutique highlighting Greek designers and the deal is sealed.
Getty Images7. Ventus di Milo
Ventus di Milos's six suites may be a little further inland but what they lack in a waterfront backdrop, they make up for with their understated design and secluded location. Sarakiniko, visible from verandahs and the pool area, and Mandrakia’s technicolour boathouses are each a mere six-minute drive away. Eschewing the Cycladic blue-and-white for earthy neutrals, room interiors are warm and inviting, with mottled hazel walls, black woven hanging lampshades and oak headboards. Each terrace has a hot tub with pool or sea views, while a fireplace in the common outdoor seating area further adds to the mood.
8. Milos PLV
A boundary-breaking Greek architectural firm envisioned this sustainable three-hectare seafront estate to emerge from the landscape in an organic way. Built with white limestone to blend in with surrounding cliffs, the property uses geothermal energy and desalinated water, while fruit orchards and a vegetable garden provide sustenance. Up to 10 guests can stay in a villa with an infinity pool and sweeping terraces, a guest house and a studio cottage. A winding path leads to a pebble beach otherwise only accessible by sea. In this uniquely wild environment, soul-cleansing alone time is just what the doctor ordered.
9. Villa Costa Mare
One of the sleekest villas to open in Milos, Villa Costa Mare is all about suave lines and discreet barefoot luxe living. Swirls of exposed white rock serve as the backdrop to the upper-level lounge, which looks out onto a slim cove and across to Kimolos. Furnishings are exquisite, from a rough-hewn marble dining table base to delicate sculptures of hands. Six guests can stay comfortably in three bedrooms, all with king-size beds and ensuite bathrooms. While away the day on jet black day beds, cooling off with a languid dip in the mini pool before heading out for supper at one of the nearby upscale tavernas.
What to do on Milos
1. Explore Milos’ wild west with a 4WD safari
Almost all of the island’s wild, tough-to-access west falls under the protection of the EU’s Natura 2000 network. The best way to explore it is by four-wheel-drive on an insightful full-day tour led by a knowledgeable local guide. Visit an inactive volcano and learn about its morphology, spot migratory birds at the Achivadolimni wetlands and trek through rust-red caves at an abandoned manganese mine in Cape Vani, before cooling off at sandy, little-trodden Agathia beach.
Website: milosgreece.gr
- Wellness & SpasIs after-dark wellness the new trend to boost your sex life?
- Eating & Drinking31 best things to do in London this weekend: 26 - 28 April 2024
S_Kaisu2. Take a self-guided hike through history
You don’t need to be a geology, history or cartography nerd to find the six Miloterranean Geo Walk routes to be fascinating. Experts in these fields, together with mining engineers and foresters, created the detailed self-guided online hiking maps on behalf of the Milos Mining Museum, which is worth a visit in itself. Trails of varying lengths lead to the old sulphur mines at Theorychia, a prehistoric obsidian quarry and the Fylakopi archaeological site, among other highlights.
Website: miloterranean.gr
Getty Images3. Track down beaches loved by locals
Escape the crowds at Milos’ hotspots and head northeast to peaceful Alogomandra beach, where locals gather. Arrive early and snare a shady spot on fine sand below a partially-collapsed cave. Fewer venture to Gerontas beach, around 40 minutes drive southwest of Adamas, to which you should factor in a 20-minute walk. The waters here are deep and tranquil and the sand volcanic. Solitude seekers should rent a four-wheel drive and head west to Triades to cavort across a trio of pristine, often people-free sandy beaches.
Getty Images4. Sail to dreamy Sykia and Kleftiko
Milos-born and-bred captain Elias Xydous and his wife Mary run one of the island’s most comprehensive full-day sailing tours aboard their trusty 40-foot sailboat Oneiro. Take in views of syrmata villages before dropping anchor for a swim and snorkel within the wondrous Sykia sea cave, followed by former pirate hideout Kleftiko’s soaring limestone cliffs. Kalogria is the final swim stop and, in between, Mary will keep you well fed with seafood pasta and assorted mezze.
Address: Adamas, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: milosoneiro.com
Hemis / Alamy Stock Photo5. Dive where pirates roamed
While it’s unlikely you’ll stumble onto buried treasure, you can don scuba gear and take a closer look at the vibrant volcanic seabed in Kleftiko or inspect the Africa shipwreck off Sarakiniko. PADI-certified Dive in Milos caters to both novices and experienced divers. If you’re extremely lucky, you may spot a Mediterranean monk seal, one of the world’s rarest marine mammals. A small population of this protected species breeds in the waters between Milos, Kimolos and Poliegos islands.
Address: Adamas, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: diveinmilos.gr
- Wellness & SpasIs after-dark wellness the new trend to boost your sex life?
- Eating & Drinking31 best things to do in London this weekend: 26 - 28 April 2024
Getty Images6. Cruise the coast at your own speed
Milos has around 78 beaches, yet less than half are accessible by land. Boat rental is a rarity in the windswept Cyclades, so take advantage of the opportunity to beach-hop at your leisure. Hire a 30-horsepower motorboat, for which a boating licence isn’t required, from Blue Mile Boat Rentals. Pack a picnic lunch, protective clothing and suncream and seek out secret swimming spots like Gerakas, where the sea is an eye-watering shade of cyan.
Address: Adamas, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: bluemile.gr/en
7. Swim off heavenly Poliegos
East of Milos lies Poliegos, home to a retired couple and what some argue are Greece’s most surreal blue-green waters. You’ll want to tap Salty Rides for a customised, all-day excursion aboard a speedy RIB exploring the islet’s seemingly limitless coves and peninsulas. If the weather permits, skipper siblings Manolis and Michael Tourlos might take you to isolated Soufi Bay and a fjord in northern Kimolos. Included are take-home beach towels, sea toys and Milean cheese pies.
Address: Pollonia, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: saltyrides.gr
8. Sample cave-aged wine
Milos’ geological profile lends itself to a centuries-old European tradition of ageing wine in a cave. Inspired by Greece’s wine-making heritage harking back to antiquity, vintner Kostas Mallis recently introduced fermentation of the wine in clay amphoras at his family-run winery housed in a cave. Pay a visit to the warmly-welcoming Pollonia winery and be one of the first to sample these experimental wines, produced with Roditis and Savvatiano grapes from vines planted by his grandfather more than 50 years ago.
Address: Pollonia, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: kostantakiswinery.com
Getty Images9. Spend the day on Kimolos
Hop into your hire car and board the ferry that crisscrosses regularly between Pollonia and Kimolos island, whose minuscule size belies its rare mineral bounty. Photogenic syrmata line the waterfront in Goupa-Kara, where rocky outposts beckon swimmers to dive in. Even more impressive waters, a dazzling shade of emerald, await at Prassa beach. In cobblestoned main town Horio, alleyways lead to a fortified settlement. Down at Psathi port, To Kyma taverna tempts yachties with fine carpaccio and ceviche.
Getty Images10. Catch a performance at an ancient theatre
While the Aphrodite of Milos may be in the Louvre in Paris, the island retains an important piece of its ancient past in the form of a painstakingly-preserved marble amphitheatre. Located on a hill above a bay near Tripiti, the monument is thought to date to the Hellenistic period but was remodelled during the Roman era. Reminiscent of the ancient Greek theatre in Turkey’s Ephesus, it hosts occasional theatre and music performances for an audience of up to 700.
Address: Tripiti, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: odysseus.culture.gr
- Wellness & SpasIs after-dark wellness the new trend to boost your sex life?
- Eating & Drinking31 best things to do in London this weekend: 26 - 28 April 2024
Best bars on Milos
1. Verina
After years living in Athens and spending summers in his native Milos, Stelios Mathioudakis found the perfect location to open a bar in the island’s picturesque hilltop capital of Plaka. He named it Verina, which translates as twisted nautical knot. Low-lit and atmospheric, the bar is decked out with timber rafters, fishing net light fixtures and a seafarer’s portrait. Order the Sailor’s Punch, a mix of aged rum, pineapple, passionfruit, falernum liqueur, ginger and aromatic bitters and catch the sunset from neighbouring Panagia Korfiatissia church’s courtyard.
Address: Verina, Plaka, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: instagram.com/verina_cocktail_bar
2. Aragosta
Milos’ nightlife is concentrated in the port town of Adamas and, while the scene is exceptionally subdued compared to its sleepless Cycladic sister Mykonos, there are a couple of small, casual spots where you can party. Everyone seems to congregate at longstanding meeting spot Aragosta after 11pm to people-watch or groove to RnB and pop tracks. Order an Aragosta Champagne with prosecco, Moët, strawberry and Amaretto.
Address: Aragosta, Adamas, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: aragosta.gr
3. Akri
Akri, which means edge in Greek, certainly lives up to its name. Alexandros Desbordes converted his grandmother’s traditional home in a quiet corner above Adamas’ port into a classic bar in 1995. Jazz, lounge and ethnic beats dominate the three stone-paved outdoor spaces, where patrons can watch ferries silently come and go. Around 10pm, the DJ turns up the volume indoors and switches to disco, funk and pop. Akri’s namesake cocktail blends mastiha liqueur, gin, lime, grapefruit soda and cardamom bitters.
Address: Akri, Adamas, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: facebook.com/akrimilos
4. Utopia
Seats at Plaka’s only bar with an alfresco terrace that looks out onto the Aegean are highly sought-after, particularly when the sun starts to go down and casts a burnt sienna glow on the sea. Jazz, RnB and Greek ballads are the music mainstays, while the crowd is a mix of families, couples and parties of friends. There’s an excellent selection of premium spirits, fine Greek wines, cocktails and mocktails like Vir-Gin Fizz, an amalgam of zero alcohol gin, redcurrant syrup and soda water, plus local cheese platters.
Address: Utopia, Plaka, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: facebook.com/UtopiaCafePlakaMilos
5. Mostra
Couples of all ages gravitate to this super mellow watering hole for its spacious, elevated sea-front terrace offering front-row seat views of yachts jostling for space in Adamas’ busy port, their lights twinkling in the night. The soundtrack at Mostra, which is part of Hotel Adamas, comprises lounge, soft melodic and rhythmic vibes. Cocktails are of the classic kind so you can expect the full gamut, from Negroni and Old Fashioned to Cosmopolitan and Aperol Spritz.
Address: Mostra, Adamas, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: instagram.com/mostra_cocktail_bar
Getting to Milos
For more information on Greece, see visitgreece.gr. Aegean Airlines flies from London to Athens direct three times daily year-round and on to Milos and more than 30 more Greek destinations. For four-wheel-drives to rent, visit milosrent.gr.