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Canalside bar and cafe on a sunny day in Amsterdam, the Netherlands.
‘From picturesque streets of higgledy-piggledy houses to techno nights in converted factories, Amsterdam has many faces.’ Photograph: Alamy
‘From picturesque streets of higgledy-piggledy houses to techno nights in converted factories, Amsterdam has many faces.’ Photograph: Alamy

10 of the best insider's tips to Amsterdam

This article is more than 6 years old

With tickets for Eurostar’s direct service to Amsterdam on sale from 20 February, we pick some of the city’s best restaurants, parks and cultural attractions away from the tourist centre

Amsterdam’s reputation for stag dos, spliff and sex tourism belies the rich pickings beyond Dam Square. Described by locals as a village, Amsterdam has the arts, entertainment and startup scene of many larger cities but retains a friendly and relaxed atmosphere. As a resident, I love that all my favourite places are just a short journey away. The vibe is laid-back and the dress code avoids the stiff chic of more status-conscious cities: the rule is, if you can’t cycle in it, don’t wear it. From picturesque narrow streets of higgledy-piggledy houses to sweaty techno nights in converted factories, this city reveals its many faces to those willing to stray from the tourist hotspots.

Gs Brunch Boat

The best way to explore Amsterdam is from the water. Gs Brunch Boat, a converted coal barge with a retro interior and sunshine roof, offers a cosy alternative to the regular tour boat formulas. The €39.50 cover price includes the boat trip and à la carte menu, including eggs Benedict and bloody marys. The round trip lasts 1¾ hours and passes through the historical centre for some gable-gazing and out to the IJ harbour with its modern architecture.
Boards by Keizersgracht 177. Sails Sat-Sun in winter and Fri-Sun from April to August. Departure times vary, reallyniceplace.com

Ons’ Lieve Heer Op Solder

Photograph: Arjan Bronkhorst

The Anne Frank House is not the only secret attic in Amsterdam worth visiting. In the heart of the busy red light district is a 17th-century Catholic church constructed in the attic of a merchant’s house during the Protestant reformation. An audio guide tells the story of the church and takes you on a historical tour of the building, describing how its owners once lived. An abundance of iconographic art and interesting artefacts satisfy the curiosity, while the Voices of Tolerance exhibition promotes a wider reflection on religious freedom. Lacking the queues of the Anne Frank House and the Rijksmuseum – the city’s only museum older than it – Op Solder is a great alternative to the usual tourist tick-list and a splendid example of Dutch Golden Age architecture.
Adult €11, child €5.50, open Mon-Sat 10am-6pm, Sun 1pm-6pm, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 38 opsolder.nl

Huis Marseille

Huis Marseille, Amsterdam Photograph: Eddo Hartmann

The predominantly modern works in this photography gallery are in contrast to the 17th-century buildings in which they hang. Attracting talent from around the world, such as Dana Lixenberg and Jamie Hawkesworth, Huis Marseille’s exhibitions broach a range of challenging themes, from the personal to the political. The ornamental garden behind the museum is a quiet space to escape the city but if it’s boutiques and bars you want, explore the Negen Straatjes, nine cute shopping streets that cut through the central canals.
Entrance €8, under-17s free, open 11am-6pm, closed Monday. Keizersgracht 399-401, huismarseille.nl

Restaurant De Struisvogel

Distracted by the beautifully-lit bridges and chocolate-box buildings of the Keizersgracht canal, it would be easy to miss one of its treasures – as the door to Restaurant De Struisvogel (The Ostrich) is below eye level and leads into a basement. Inside, wooden furniture and a giant chalkboard of choices at sensible prices create an unpretentious dining atmosphere. The three-course set menu is €28.50 and includes simple starters – paté, salad or soup – followed by mains such as ostrich steak with a quince compote (€4.50 supplement) and haddock with red pepper, fennel and mussels. There are just two sittings, so booking is essential. If it’s full, try its new sister restaurant Bistro De Struisvogel, a five-minute walk away.
Open Sun-Fri from 5.30pm, Sat from 5pm. Keizersgacht 312, uk.restaurantdestruisvogel.nl

Pllek

The 14-minute ferry trip from Centraal Station to NDSM wharf is free and opens up a world of urban cool in Amsterdam Noord. One of the jewels in this landscape of shipping containers and warehouses is Pllek, a beach bar and music venue a short walk from the drop-off point. The corrugated metal structure and galleried seating works with the leather sofas, picnic benches and school desks. The programme is eclectic, with live music, dance, yoga, and film, as well as all-day food. Expect a festival-like atmosphere in the summer, when bonfires are lit and revellers and music acts spill out onto the beach in a happy muddle.
Opening times vary – until late in summer, TT Neveritaweg 59, pllek.nl

Westerpark

Cyclists on a bike path in Westerpark, Amsterdam. Photograph: Alamy

If you head north-west on the lively Haarlemmerstraat, past its cool coffee shops and stores, you eventually arrive at the Westerpark. Less busy than the famous Vondelpark to the south, this park is about playgrounds and dog-walkers in the day and culture and clubbing at night, as the Westergasfabriek – a former gasworks – comes to life. Try the Bakkerswinkel for breakfast for around €10. Lunch is sandwiches or soup from €6, or salads from €9. The cafe also serves high tea from €17.50pp. Grab some Dutch ice-cream at nearby Ijscuypje or a chunky bar of Dutch chocolate at Tony’s Chocolonely where fun flavours include orange and rosemary and milk popcorn discodip.

Albert Cuyp market

Photograph: Alamy

This lively street market in the Pijp district, south of the centre, is over 100 years old and claims to be the largest daily market in Europe. Fruit and veg, fish, flowers and clothes are the staples but the list goes on. For sampling cheese, poffertjes (tiny pancakes) or herring at local prices, this is a great place to start. The Pijp is full of fun spots to drink and dine once the market is closed. Check out nearby Pho 91 for tangy Vietnamese soup and then head south to Brouwerij Troost, a former monastery serving beer brewed on site.
Open Mon-Sat 9am-5pm, Albert Cuypstraat, albertcuyp-markt.amsterdam

Mr Blou I Love You

The owner of Mr Blou … is a former Michelin-starred chef who wanted more contact with people and, believing that everybody should eat well, whatever their means, he opened his food stall in October 2017. The focus is on vegan street food but there is chicken, too. Around 95% of the produce is organic and most is locally sourced, including Lot Sixty One coffee, which is roasted less than 10 minutes’ walk away at Kinkerstraat 112. There are cakes, smoothies, wraps and salads but the homemade falafel takes centre stage. Lunch and a drink is around €11. Curl up on the sheepskin-covered benches under the awnings or eat your take-out while exploring the pretty streets in the nearby Jordaan district.
Open Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm in winter and 9am-10pm in summer, Elandsgracht 150 on Facebook

OT301

This former squat is full of artistic activity, much of it free of charge. Resident artists and community classes occupy the centre by day, while evenings mean films, live music, DJs and jam sessions. The bar on the left is the main hub and is home to De Peper, where volunteers serve pay-what-you-can vegan food four days a week (7pm-8.30pm). In a back room is the table tennis bar (Tuesdays) and, hidden in the basement, a radio station plays juicy beats to an internet audience. The air smells damp, but the sound is wonderful.
Opening times vary. Check website for agenda. Overtoom 301, ot301.nl

The Tire Station

There’s trendy accommodation at an affordable price at this 112-bedroom hotel, which prides itself on its environmental credentials but refuses to be preachy and even has parking – a rarity in Amsterdam. Inside this former Michelin tyre station, the design is modern, industrial and angular, with exposed piping and a sand-cement floor. Upstairs, the pinboard feature wall, cheeky word art, and the minimalist decor of the bedrooms, create a relaxed, studenty feel, while the Royal Dutch Auping beds help with a good night’s sleep. The hotel is close to the 120-acre Vondelpark and a 10-minute tram ride from the centre. When you have tried out the hotel’s own cafe and restaurant, continue down Amstelveenseweg for a huge choice of bars and restaurants – to suit all budgets.
Rooms from €80 room-only in low season, organic breakfast €15, Amstelveenseweg 1-7, conscioushotels.com

Getting there

The new Eurostar route from London to Amsterdam starts on 4 April but tickets go on sale on 20 February. Fares will start from £35 each way and the outward journey will take 3 hours 41 minutes, the return leg (with a change in Brussels) around an hour longer. There are direct flights to Amsterdam Schiphol from 26 UK airports, starting at around £47 return, carriers include Aer Lingus, BA, CityJet, easyJet, Eurowings, Flybe, Jet2, KLM and Vueling.

Best time to go

27 April for Koningsdag (King’s Day), the all-orange, all-day street party in celebration of King Willem-Alexander’s birthday. 15-17 June for Open Garden Weekend, when many of the grand courtyards concealed behind the canal houses are opened up to the public. 4 August for the Canal Parade, the highlight of Pride Amsterdam, when the whole town comes out to cheer on the elaborate floats and their costumed LGBTQ crew.

Exchange rate £1 = €1.13; a small draft beer (25cl) costs about €3

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