Fjords, Food, and Fewer Crowds: A Visit to Bergen, Norway

View of Bergen from Mount Fløyen in Norway
View of Bergen from Mount Fløyen in NorwayPhoto: Alamy

This summer, instead of the usual beach vacation, consider a visit to Bergen, Norway. While the capital city of Oslo tends to top travel lists, the country’s second-largest city is wooing travelers with its natural beauty (it’s surrounded by the stunningly picturesque Seven Mountains), history, cultural gems, and world-class cuisine. But luckily, this destination is relatively under-the-radar, meaning you won’t have to deal with those typical summer crowds. And if touring in the blazing summer heat isn’t your idea of a good time, perhaps best of all, the temperature in Bergen hovers around a refreshing mid-50s all season long. Here, a primer for what to do on your visit:

What to DoFor a panoramic view of fjords, sea, and city, take the Fløibanen funicular to the top of Mount Fløyen, one of the city’s most iconic attractions. For the more adventurous, you can also hike to the top or rent a mountain bike for the trek. For another stunning way to take in the nature on offer in Bergen, there are quite a few short cruise options, that take you through the narrow fjords and close enough to the many waterfalls that you can reach out and touch them.

In town, visit the historic old wharf of Bryggen, which has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The area was used as a trading dock between 1350 and 1750 (though the buildings were rebuilt after a fire in 1702). The colorful wooden houses are picture perfect and rendered in shades of orange, red, yellow, pink, and white. While you’re there, stop at Hanseatic Museum and Schøtstuene, which is the only place you’ll be able to see some of Bryggen’s original preserved interiors. Finish with a bite at Bryggen Tracteursted, a restaurant in one of the historic houses with a menu inspired by western Norwegian culture and local produce.

In the center of Bergen, there’s also some surprisingly vivid, colorful graffiti that wraps the smaller, newer buildings and contrasts with the cobblestone and historic wooden buildings. Here, you’ll also find many short streets—some of which are so short they only contain one building. The shortest is Bekketomten, which is just short of 60 feet long.

For architecture and design fans, visit the Fantoft Stave Church, an ornate medieval church made of wood. It was first constructed in 1150 (and rebuilt after a 1992 fire to match the original exactly) and serves as one of the few remaining stave churches left in Europe. Also worth visiting for its huge collection of Norwegian folk art and traditional costumes is Bergen Museum, which is part of the University of Bergen.

However, for a more unusual way to take in Bergen and get a feel for the surrounding mountains, you can also rent a car and drive through the world’s longest tunnel—The Lærdal Tunnel, connecting Lærdal and Aurland—which has surprisingly become a tourist destination. At more than 15 miles long, three large caverns break up the space and create the illusion of daylight.

The cable car on Mount UlrikenPhoto: Alamy

What to EatStart the morning out by picking up a steaming cup of Norwegian coffee at Kaffemisjonen. For a memorable weekend brunch, take a cable car to the top of Mount Ulriken (the highest of the Seven Mountains) for an incredible view and a meal of fresh local ingredients at Sky:skraperen.

To get a taste of traditional, simple Norwegian home cooking try Pingvinen, considered one of the city’s best gastropubs. Local fish and mutton are menu mainstays, and the juicy meatballs are a must-order.

For dinner, Enhjørningen is a very traditional fish restaurant that serves everything from trout sashimi to whale carpaccio—a native Norwegian dish. Boha, a massive restaurant with Italian and Mediterranean influences, is a good option for its extensive shellfish and seafood menu.

If you’re on the hunt for post-dinner drinks, Lysverket offers snacks like spiced nuts and asparagus with garlic puree and dried egg yolk alongside Norwegian takes on classic cocktails like a Dark and Stormy or French 75. If you prefer a cold beer, Henrik Øl & Vinstove offers more than 50 different types of Scandinavian beers on tap.

Fisketorget fish marketPhoto: Alamy

Where to ShopBergen’s fish market—or Fisketorget—is a must for both locals and tourists alike. People flock to the outdoor stalls to sample and buy fresh whale, herring, salmon, caviar, mackerel, and more.

Robotbutikken is another popular shop, which sells vinyl records, books, zines and T-shirts. They also specialize in prints by Norwegian artists. At the modern, stunning design shop Norden og Verden, you’ll find everything from Scandinavian-made wooden chopping boards, to light fixtures, wallpaper, and leather bags.

Deep in the heart of Bryggen between the colorful houses, you’ll also find alleys brimming with mom-and-pop shops that are, in ways, untouched by modern technology—most of them don’t even have websites and sell everything from handmade soaps to elegant little folkloric carvings or trolls which are a popular souvenir in Norway. Within this same area, there's also Juhls Silver Gallery, which sells things such as handmade earrings and necklaces, and Gunvor Handmade Illustration, where you can pick up whimsical postcards, posters, and zines decked out in flowers and unicorns.

After that, head a little more than 10 miles north of Bergen, to visit the Museum of Norwegian Knitting Industry, where you can learn about the intricate history and process of knitting and textiles in Norway—plus shop some of the scarves, gloves, or sweaters knitted right on the premises.

Where to Stay

When it comes to hotels in Bergen, the town puts an emphasis on homey, comfortable, and affordable digs over luxury stays. Scandic Neptun has an idyllic view out most of the windows, with trees, mountains, sea, and colorful rooftops, plus the added bonus of its three restaurants and additional bar area. Lucullus, inside, is considered one of the best French gourmet restaurants in town and uses local ingredients to give everything a Nordic spin.

For more of a small-town feel, head to The Hanseatic Hotel, which is one of the few hotels located in Bryggen. The hotel has just 37 rooms, and each of them is decorated differently—from wood cabin–style walls to modern Scandinavian décor or clawfoot tubs.

Tubakuba, a sleek and modern cabin designed by students at the Bergen School of Architecture sits in the woods on the side of a cliff just outside Bergen and provides for a more adventurous opportunity. The interior may be minimal, but there’s a wood stove, lofted areas, and, of course, a gorgeous vista view of Bergen’s mountains. It’s only open during the summer months and can be booked through the Bergen Kommune.