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Where I Live
At Home in Paris
Liz Alderman, who wrote “My Paris: Seduced by History,” offers an insider’s guide on places to eat, drink and visit in the Marais district of Paris.
Sustenance
In the Haut Marais, Máncora Cebicheria (16, rue Dupetit-Thouars, 33-1-43-48-47-65), with its colorful ceviche-oriented menu, is a trendy destination for dinner. Go early, they don’t take reservations.
It’s best to reserve at Les Chouettes (32, rue de Picardie, 33-1-44-61-73-21), a French-fusion gastro pub serving inspired cuisine in an Eiffel Tower-style setting.
Le Loir dans La Théière (3, rue des Rosiers, 33-1-42-72-90-61) dishes hunks of homemade dessert and quiche for brunch.
Benedict (19, rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie, 33-1-42-76-91-37) has eggs Benedict and néo-bistrot fare.
Places to Pause
Artéfact, for coffee and tea, is around the corner from Benedict, at 23, rue des Blancs-Manteaux.
On the Île de la Cité, pause at La Réserve de Quasimodo (4, rue de la Colombe, 33-1-46-34-67-67) for wine and cheese.
Finding the Past
To dip into the medieval and Renaissance, start at the Square du Temple (64, rue de Bretagne, 33-1-48-87-93-19), an airy, tree-lined park where the Knights Templar fortress once stood.
The Hôtel de Soubise palace houses French historic documents dating to the fifth century. The adjacent gardens, which are open year-round, abut the elegant Hôtel de Rohan, where more archives are stored. Enter at 60, rue des Francs-Bourgeois.
The Hôtel de Lamoignon (24, rue Pavée) features a wide cobblestone courtyard and access to the Bibliothèque Historique de la Ville de Paris.
View the Hôtel Amelot de Bisseuil (47, rue Vieille du Temple) through its famous Gorgon-head doors — redone in red.
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