It’s been a few years since the first wave of Sichuan restaurants opened across the San Gabriel Valley, with places like Chengdu Taste and Sichuan Impression finding wide followings from chile-seeking diners. Though Chengdu Impression opened around the same time in 2017, it’s often confused with the two other restaurants and occupies a strange space with a ground-floor dining area and more group-oriented tables with ornate embellishments upstairs. Ambience aside, expect one of LA’s top Sichuan menus starting with solid versions of twice-cooked pork and dan dan noodles. Mapo tofu comes with finely ground beef instead of the more popular pork, bubbling in a wide stone bowl straight from the stove and topped with ample chile oil. It’s easily one of the best versions of Sichuan’s most iconic dish in town. Those adventurous enough to delve into the hot or dry pots will be rewarded with layered cauldrons of shaved snakehead fish boiled in water and chile-flecked oil with still-crunchy pieces of floating lotus roots and potato slivers. The lesson to take away is that the bigger the group, the more can be ordered and shared for a fiery feast. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

After relocating his family from Syria to Pasadena, Haroutioun Geragosian opened Old Sasoon Bakery in 1986. The bakery is named after the town his grandparents left in Armenia. Today, Geragosian’s son Joseph helms daily operations and has added a sign in Arabic outside which reads “abou Yousef” (Joseph’s father). Old Sasoon Bakery may be best known for its lahmajoun, which is an Armenian flatbread served with the option of toppings like ground beef, za’atar, cheese, and more. Diners can also find khachapuri, a Georgian boat-shaped flatbread topped with cheese and egg, and beoregs filled with spinach, olive, potato, and mushroom. At almost 40 years old, Old Sasoon Bakery has made an indelible impact on the Armenian dining scene in Los Angeles, and has settled into everything a neighborhood bakery should be — welcoming and priced accessibly, with some truly memorable food. — Rebecca Roland, associate editor 

Expect to find impeccably sourced ingredients, skillful cooking, and seemingly simple but immensely satisfying dishes at Yang’s Kitchen in Alhambra. While the restaurant no longer serves the modern Chinese menu of beef noodle soup and whole-grain scallion pancakes that made it a local and national sensation, chef Chris Yang’s updated daytime and dinner menus are chock-full of delightful flavors and ingredients that are just as compelling. Highlights from the daytime offerings include salt-and-pepper fried chicken wings, cold sesame noodles, mochi pancakes, and a traditional Japanese breakfast. Visit Yang’s at dinner to partake in wine-fueled evenings and shareable plates of dan dan campanelle and Hainan fish rice. — Cathy Chaplin, senior editor

Long Beach has the largest concentration of Cambodians of any city outside of Cambodia, so it’s no surprise that a crop of restaurants have made their mark on this part of the Southland. In 1985, Phnom Penh Noodle Shack opened as a compact daytime restaurant making savory, soupy, saucy food, especially the No. 1 house special: the Phnom Penh noodles. It’s full of shrimp, along with pork that’s been sliced, ground, and with stomach and liver. There are five noodle styles to choose from, from rice to egg noodles with variations on the size. Ask the staff for guidance and you can’t go wrong. — Mona Holmes, reporter

Mexico City chef Enrique Olvera’s Los Angeles restaurant didn’t land with quite the fanfare of his New York City restaurant Cosme when it opened amid a particularly challenging portion of the pandemic in 2020, but soon enough, it found its footing as one of the most intriguing modern Mexican restaurants in Los Angeles. Like Cosme, Damian has a choose-your-own-adventure approach that departs from Olvera’s more celebrated tasting menu restaurant, Pujol, in CDMX. Ultimately, Damian has made its impact by resonating with Los Angeles flavors, serving everything from duck al pastor and pescado “a la brasa” to hibiscus-infused meringue dessert. Service, from start to meal’s end, is impeccable (your server will predict, not react to, your requests). A restrained dining room and sleek outdoor patio setup further amplify the elegant experience. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Kwang Uh’s celebrated fermentation restaurant went on a years-long hiatus as the chef met and married his wife Mina Park. Together, they opened Shiku (which means family) in Grand Central Market and had a son. Throughout Baroo’s journey, the idea was always to present Uh’s upscale preparations in a venue befitting the quality of the ingredients and thoughtfulness of the flavors. Baroo’s reincarnation in Arts District — now a full tasting menu restaurant with creative cocktails, beers, sul, and wine — has placed it firmly at the top of LA’s modern Korean food movement. Though the exploration of Buddhist philosophy is a part of the menu’s overall direction, Uh and Park aren’t heavy-handed with the ideology. Instead, expect a gorgeous, thought-provoking journey through a proverbial life cycle in Buddhism, from youth to maturity, exhibited as courses like battered skate wing with seabuckthorn wrapped in lettuce or pork collar with goulash jjigae and baek kimchi. Priced at just over $100 before drinks, tax, and tip, Baroo is now the experience it should have been from the start. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Chinatown’s restaurant scene received a major boost when the former Plum Tree Inn was revived as Broadway Cuisine, a room whose lack of windows gives it a kind of office-building vibe. The lack of modern ambience shouldn’t dissuade one from seeking the wok-fired treasures of its Chinese American and regional Chinese menu that manages to both please a crowd and impress seasoned fans of the cuisine. Even a simple plate of pan-fried chicken noodles manages to balance the right textures and seasonings without being cloying. Fish filet with black bean sauce comes studded with still-crisp red onions and bell peppers, plus plump mushrooms for extra measure. Portions are heaping too, which means Broadway is a go-to for impromptu group dinners, with ample parking in the back. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Far East Plaza gem Lasita came to life after the lights dimmed for its forerunner, Filipino American restaurant Lasa, during the pandemic. In the years since its rapid rebirth, Lasita has both flourished and upped the ante on what Filipino dining can mean in Los Angeles. From start to finish, its menu offers comfort and familiarity without being well-trodden: airy shrimp chips get a dusting of sweet tamarind powder; oyster mushroom sisig, meanwhile, arrives hissing under a sunny fried egg and fermented Thai chilis; rotisserie dishes, like brined and stuffed chicken inasal and crackling pork belly lechon, are served by the half or full pound with garlic mojo, toyomansi, and other fixings. The room is alive and humming during dinner hours, flush with diners drinking plentiful glasses of thoughtfully sourced, low-intervention wines. That party-at-home atmosphere spills out onto its front patio, near where diners often perch and wait on weekends for a coveted table to open up.  — Nicole Adlman, cities manager

Chef residencies don’t usually run for very long, but that’s not the case for Diego Argoti’s Poltergeist, which debuted in February 2023 inside Button Mash in Echo Park. With its oddball, sensational, and deliciously thought-provoking dishes, Poltergeist is a standout addition to the neighborhood. The Thai Caesar is a puzzle to figure out how to eat with its towering green puffed rice, crispy texture, and lemongrass notes, but that’s half the fun. A miso glaze, Fresno chile butter, and furikake make the Parker House rolls both savory and sweet (your table might ask for a second order). And don’t question the horchata panna cotta that’s paired with Argoti’s honey walnut prawns — just dig in. The menu changes regularly and never fails to keep Los Angeles guessing. — Mona Holmes, reporter

One of LA’s best seafood restaurants resides in Echo Park. Six months after opening in 2022, Lonely Oyster owner Don Andes recruited L&E and Saso chef Dom Crisp to head up the kitchen. Crisp self-describes seafood as his love language, and it shows in Lonely Oyster’s sustainably sourced and impeccably curated menu full of fresh oysters, seafood towers (called plateaus), grilled octopus with grilled pesto potatoes, and a surf-and-turf tartare with wagyu and roe, along with seafood chowders, fish and chips, and incredible cioppino. The main room feels open and spacious with booths and a long bar, but the front and back patios fill up, especially before Dodger games. Collaborations with Crisp and other seafood-obsessed chefs are a regular part of the programming as well. Staff can recommend a glass or bottle from Lonely Oyster’s formidable wine list, and the recent addition of beverage director Philip Ross (Asterid and De Buena Planta) now means that a new crop of creative cocktails is available to try for brunch, lunch, dinner, or until last call at 2 a.m. Thursday through Saturday. — Mona Holmes, reporter

The brightest new star in Downtown’s dining scene is Joyce, a Southern restaurant with chef Sammy Monsour at the helm. Vibrant crowds gather around the dining room to revel in good vibes and over dishes like crawfish hushpuppies and chilled seafood platters. Every meal ought to begin with at least a half dozen wonderfully bright and meaty oysters from Murder Point, Alabama when they’re available. It’s the perfect start paired with one of the bar’s zero-waste cocktails by beverage director and co-owner Kassady Wiggins. Next, settle into warmer plates like the hot catfish that’s buttermilk-marinated and cornmeal-crusted or the Gullah Geechee-style braised kale. The fried-to-order beignets generously dusted with powdered sugar and served with a duo of sauces offer one of the finest finishes in town. It’s impossible to spell Joyce without joy. — Cathy Chaplin, senior editor

Alfonso “Poncho” Martínez’s ode to Oaxaca’s incredible grilled tlayudas is on full display at this Fridays-only pop-up held in a South LA backyard from 4 p.m. to about 10 p.m. Martínez assembles fine dining-worthy tlayudas, painted with asiento, filled with smooth black beans, and packed with cheese and shredded cabbage. There are traditional proteins like chorizo, tasajo, and cecina, but opt for the moronga blood sausage when it’s available. These dense, meaty sausages — kissed with wood fire — are glorious. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

This all-day spot from chef Jonathan Whitener and partner Lien Ta captures the freewheeling energy of eastside dining. Crowds gather in the mornings and afternoons for breakfast burritos crammed with smoked longaniza sausage, hotcakes glazed with guava, and the signature biscuit sandwich piled high with eggs, cheese, and strawberry jam. Those visiting later in the day will do well with the hot fish sandwich made with a tender filet of mahi mahi and the smoked half-chicken served with french fries and garlic aioli. — Cathy Chaplin, senior editor

Even with its counter dormant during a 2023 remodel, Gilberto Cetina’s jewel box of a mariscos restaurant, Holbox (pronounced ol-bosh), kept crowds gathered just outside the doors of Mercado La Paloma with a truck parked in front. There, diners could order from a tightened menu that included some of the 6-year-old restaurant’s greatest hits: the taco de pulpo en su tinta, “su tinta” referencing the ink-stained sofrito the curled octopus tentacle rests upon; limey, lip-puckering aguachiles and cocteles served with tostadas and Saladitas crackers, respectively; a smoked kanpachi tostada topped with bay scallop and zigzags of a nutty chile de arbol sauce. Its $115 8-course tasting menu, which features a rotating selection of Cetina’s most-loved dishes, returned in May with a few more seats at the counter. Still, better to make a reservation for the two dinnertime seatings, which are held on Thursdays and Fridays at 6 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. only. — Nicole Adlman, cities manager

Seong Buk Dong is a Koreatown legend for good reason. The strip mall restaurant is sometimes overshadowed by the constantly busy Dan Sung Sa, but those in the know push on past the pocha to share orders of some of the neighborhood’s best galbi-jjim (marinated short ribs), godeungeo jorim (braised mackerel), and bibimbap. Those looking for a bowl of something warm and comforting can find it in the kimchi jjigae (stew) and tteok guk (rice cake soup). When the restaurant first opened, Seungbukdong was just one small room with a kitchen in the back, but it has since expanded into a space next door, which doubles the dining area and makes it even easier to sidle up to a table at any time of the day. With generous portions, eating at Seong Buk Dong is best done with a group where multiple dishes can be ordered and shared. — Rebecca Roland, associate editor 

There are plenty of places for luxurious omakase experiences in Los Angeles, but few feel as personal as Sonagi, a passion project by chef Daniel Son. Son trained with top Japanese chefs and even staged at Noma before helming the counter at Kura Sushi in West Hollywood for years. He still oversees a slew of Katsu Sando restaurants serving his takes on Japanese convenience store sandwiches, but every weekend from Friday to Sunday he’s slicing dry-aged fish and some of the highest-quality seafood in a small Gardena strip mall space. With his wife, Janet, often pouring sake and serving guests, his sister preparing creative otsumami, and his parents coming in for prep, Sonagi is a Korean American family affair. Korean flavors show in flashes, from a dongchimi noodle soup with crab or abalone-topped dolsotbap, but in between, expect a parade of indulgent, intricate nigiri served with the highest attention to detail. Reservations are available exactly 30 days in advance for two seatings for just three nights a week. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Chad Colby’s enduring Italian restaurant, unexpectedly located in a Larchmont-adjacent strip mall, serves what may be the city’s most polished pastas, grilled meats, and rustic Italian fare through an incisive California lens. The menu includes a robust focaccia (“pane”) section with add-ons like burrata and scallion oil, marinated anchovies, whipped ricotta and pistachio pesto, or duck liver pate, while antipasti include seasonal salads and crudo. The windowless room manages to charm well-dressed diners eager to find stellar vintages on its wine list, and every table orders its share of house-churned ice creams. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Soban’s tight menu features a rarity: ganjang gejang — raw marinated flower crab — which tastes like the pinnacle of Korean cuisine with its rich, slightly fermented umami and buttery sweetness (especially over warm rice). Spicy braised black cod and braised short ribs are soulful companions to help complete the experience. The family-owned restaurant holds such a special place in the Korean community that the director and stars of the South Korean film Parasite celebrated their historic Oscar victory into the wee hours of the night at Soban. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

If driving or walking near Hollywood Boulevard and Cherokee Avenue, look for the green sign that signals your arrival at Musso & Frank Grill. Head to the retro car-filled parking lot before descending into the 105-year-old restaurant. While walking in, take a quick glimpse into the loud kitchen and observe the slightly faded chandeliers, wall light sconces, 1930s art, wood paneling, and the customers who might be casually dressed or donning a tuxedo before settling into a red leather banquette or the bar. There’s something about the pageantry of uniformed waiters and bartenders wearing white or red jackets; their skill and dedication are why management embroiders the number of years employed on their shirt cuffs. The staff gracefully move throughout the room with intention. They’re always in a hurry to make diners feel important while dropping off a glass of pinot noir or baked escargot, crab Louie, filet of sandabs, or a perfectly cooked prime rib. One might overhear a newbie diner complaining about the peeling wallpaper or lack of new dishes, but quell the haters by taking in a stirred-only martini. Musso & Frank is old-school Hollywood charm. — Mona Holmes, reporter

The 30-year-old Jones still has it. The “it” is an incredible space with the dark feel of a red sauce Italian restaurant and bar, but way cooler. Though it’s currently possible to snag a table for cocktails or dinner, Jones hit a major snag in 2023 when two drivers collided on the corner of Formosa and Santa Monica Boulevard before crashing into the restaurant’s eastern corner entrance. The accident happened late at night and no workers or diners were injured, but Jones was closed for three months for repairs; the cafe remains closed. As a testament to its beloved status in West Hollywood, the community rallied around the restaurant with employee fundraisers and reopened in February. Jones remains as popular as it was back in the early ‘90s. One can order thin-crust pizza, linguine with clams, or a dry-aged New York steak, and down it with a glass of sangiovese, a strong classic cocktail, or an Amstel Light. The apple pie served by the slice on a sizzling platter a la mode is still as good as ever. As a bonus for all of Los Angeles, the kitchen closes at 1 a.m. — Mona Holmes, reporter

LA’s oldest Thai restaurant is operated by Katy Noochlaor and chef Amanda Kuntee. The sisters (who also own Sawtelle Japantown’s Tuk Tuk Thai) took over Chao Krung from their parents, Boon and Supa Kuntee, who opened Chao Krung in 1969 on Fairfax slightly south of Beverly. In 2018, the restaurant underwent a sleek remodel and Kuntee reintroduced her parent’s original menu. Chao Krung’s offerings are deeply personal with Kuntee’s subtle touches on dishes like the hoi todd (crispy broken crepe with mussels), creamy tom kha coconut soup, garlic black pepper shrimp, and a superior pad thai. In a city where Thai restaurants are a source of culinary pride, Chao Krung continues to prevail. — Mona Holmes, reporter

The Serving Spoon’s entire existence is about one thing: the spirit of service. That’s according to former owners Angela and her husband J.C. Johnson, who inherited the business in 2004 from her father, Harold E. Sparks. In 2022, Angela and J.C. sold the business to their children Justin Johnson and Jessica Bane, who are now in charge of this soulful and Southern daytime menu. The servers are downright nurturing and pleasant, sometimes dropping off food at the table with a friendly touch on a patron’s shoulder. The Serving Spoon feeds Inglewood and beyond with combination platters named after important people from its history. The J.C. is named after J.C. Johnson, which includes a waffle with meat, or without. Or, try the Monique with one egg and a choice of ham, bacon, or sausage, with either grits, rice, or potatoes, and bread. Monique Hall was a longtime Serving Spoon server who often dashed out to the store to replenish supplies when needed. Arrive early or practice patience while watching the buzz surrounding this bustling, joyful community hub. — Mona Holmes, reporter

The baking scene in the South Bay received a major upgrade when Gjusta-alum Garrett McPerry opened Tommy & Atticus with his wife Lauren Rosen in Redondo Beach in July 2023. Since then, he’s greatly expanded the menu with sourdough bagels, sandwiches, laminated pastries, sweets, and bread loaves, all while maintaining its best-in-class quality. Flakey, buttery croissants use the best butter and freshly milled flour; fruit galettes use produce from local farmers; daily sandwiches have vegetables at their peak freshness. The loaded bagel sandwiches will draw the envy of one’s social media followers, with tender house-cured and sliced lox. Tommy & Atticus keeps everything simple on the outside, but underneath, there’s technical excellence and intentionality. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

William Joo trained at Providence and Ronan before opening his own Tokyo-style Neapolitan pizzeria in Pico-Robertson. Joo and wife Jennifer So operate this minimalist gem with a dedicated team serving a tight array of wood-fired pizzas boasting chewy, mochi-like crusts. Italian standards like margherita, marinara, and a caper-and-anchovy-topped Napoletana share menu space with more envelope-pushing pies like Joo’s Castelvetrano olive- and sopressata-topped Diavola and the prosciutto cotto-, egg-, and truffle-oil adorned Bismarck. Sei continues to garner attention for its understated excellence. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Vincent Williams, or chef Vinny, has mastered the art of fried chicken at his bustling Culver City restaurant. Sporting shatteringly crisp skin with extreme consistency, these juicy birds could be the finest fried chicken in Southern California. Drop-style biscuits and packets of honey are served on the side. Honey’s Kettle has found a wider audience thanks to cloud kitchens and delivery across the city. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Alex Vargas started a plant-based eating journey in 2014 that led him to open El Cocinero in 2020. The assembly line setup might appear like any traditional Mexican restaurant with tacos, burritos, nachos, mulitas, tortas, and quesadillas. But upon closer inspection is a masterfully prepared plant-based menu where meat substitutes become delicious fillings with excellent textures including jackfruit carnitas, eggplant cabeza, and meat substitutes like al pastor, chicharron, chicken, and asada. For those avoiding animal protein, El Cocinero is a haven where options abound on the entire menu. When ordering, ask questions about how things are prepared, make your choice, and then take a tray to one of the colorful tables. The super nachos make for a shareable starter for the entire table. They’re made with one of LA’s creamiest cashew-based cheeses, refried beans, pico de gallo, chipotle crema, cashew crema, choice of protein, and jalapenos. Always check the restaurant’s Instagram to see if they’re cooking up something special like menudo, a mushroom suadero, or birria tacos. — Mona Holmes, reporter

Si! Mon swept into Venice’s beachside dining scene in late September 2023, bringing with it a strong set of Panamanian flavors and dishes that span foodways from across Central America. Behind the menu is chef José Olmedo Carles Rojas, who grew up in Panama City and opened his seminal restaurant Fonda Lo Que Hay there. Now, in Los Angeles, Rojas has grappled with how to merge the flavors of his home city with the appetites of Angelenos. At every turn, he succeeds: The tightly composed menu zig-zags from buttery-briny starters like an uni and littleneck clam shooter to razor-thin, achiote oil-splashed tuna carpaccio draped over a yuca tostada to double-fried green banana patacones served with a lip-puckering ajillo sauce. Perhaps the pièce de résistance, however, is the gluten-free fried chicken drumsticks, which are lollipopped and dusted with a verdant seasoning salt comprised of pulverized roasted rice, shiitake mushrooms, and an intoxicating blend of alliums and herbs. (Diners also can’t go wrong with the crispy pork belly lettuce wraps served alongside coconut vinegar-spiked beans and the banana leaf-steamed kanpachi.) Planted in the former James Beach space, which has been done up with rich tropical colors and mid-century furniture, Si! Mon proves to be an unbeatable night out by the boardwalk. — Nicole Adlman, cities manager

The father of LA’s modern barbecue movement is a busy man. In July 2023, Bludso’s BBQ co-owner Kevin Bludso opened a new Santa Monica location. A month prior, Bludso won a coveted James Beard Award for his book Bludso’s BBQ Cookbook: A Family Affair in Smoke and Soul, while appearing as a judge on Netflix’s American Barbecue Showdown. Bludso, along with business partner James Starr, also operates the original location on La Brea, a takeout counter at Proud Bird near LAX, plus another barbecue restaurant in Australia. One could say that Bludso is having a moment. This Compton native’s fame and strong following are years in the making, developed through perfecting Texas-style barbecue with a Los Angeles inflection. Traditional side dishes abound on the menu with cornbread, mac and cheese, baked beans, and potato salad. Every meat is placed in a custom-built smoker for up to 14 hours, adding the perfect amount of flavorful vapor to brisket, chicken, Texas-style hot links, pulled pork, and even smoked jackfruit for vegetarians. Though the takeout business is brisk, it’s best eaten while hot on-site with one of Bludso’s strong cocktails, especially the pitmaster’s punch with vodka, pineapple, grapefruit, and ginger. — Mona Holmes, reporter