Is This Old Southern Town the Next Brooklyn?

Save for the Spanish moss draped over the live oak trees and original 22 “square” parks constructed in 1773, the newly polished facades and palpable buzz surrounding today’s Savannah are quite a change from yesteryear. “Lady Astor said [of Savannah] that it was ‘like a beautiful woman with a dirty face,’ ” chuckles Paula Wallace, president and founder of Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD). “That’s what it was when I came in 1977—very sad-looking! It had good bones and great architecture but had fallen into disrepair.” 40 years later—its nickname is Slowvannah for good reason—and with a dutiful nod to Wallace and SCAD for spearheading the architectural preservation and restoration of 100-plus historic buildings, the Hostess City appears primed to spotlight her long-awaited facelift. Socially, the Old Guard no longer feels as staunchly entrenched, and if a citywide celebration was thrown (hopefully organized by local party planner Rebecca Gardner), you might spot some familiar faces: recent L.A. and New York transplants like furniture designer Katy Skelton, florist Anissa Manzo, and Streit matzo heiress and author Mikie Heilbrun—all of whom came to sniff the azaleas and ended up staying for the idyllic quality of life and burgeoning cultural scene. Heilbrun, a born-and-bred Manhattanite, sums it up: “This is what Brooklyn was like before we were priced out!” Noted humor writer Harrison Key adds, “It’s like the mind of Flannery O’Connor made a baby with San Francisco.” Whatever the outlook, the general consensus is one of sheer and utter love.

If you’re a serious design buff, SCAD’s semisecret Magnolia Hall, a private guest house-cum-mansion, will ruin you for life (just ask Marc Jacobs, Brandon Maxwell, and André Leon Talley, who regularly drop their bags there when in town). Invites are only extended to select members of the SCAD community, so if you can’t schmooze Wallace into lending you a key, mosey across town and check into The Brice, currently the best choice among the higher-end boutique hotels offerings in town. Locals have long complained about the dearth of luxury accommodations and real estate developers are finally taking note of the upsurge in vacationers. In the next few years, West Elm is slated to open one of its first hotels in the Historic District and two Starwood properties—Perry Lane Hotel, a Luxury Collection project, and a currently unnamed Tribute hotel targeted toward millennials—are in the works. “Savannah has a unique allure that is authentically Southern with an edgier vibe,” says Jon Kully, managing partner and cofounder of Flank, the development company behind Perry Lane Hotel. “The quality of architecture is exceptional, but perhaps most importantly the cast of characters in this town make it a far more interesting place. Savannah is kind of the new It girl.”

For the rarest of bespoke shoemaking experiences, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a cordwainer—not to be confused with a cobbler!—anywhere in the U.S. quite like Hungarian-raised and -trained Marcell Mrsan of Savannah Cordwainers. Stepping into the personal atelier of this sixth-generation master artisan is magical, as Mrsan personally measures each foot and handcrafts all of his shoes in the space; he even encourages clients to pop by to see their works in progress. His primary focus is on traditional men’s shoes like moccasin loafers, derby boots, and German goisers utilizing exotic leathers like polished stingray, alligator, cordovan, military-grade textiles, and heavy canvases for his popular sneakers.

Furniture savant Christian Dunbar’s design sensibility is pure modernism, with strong lines wedded to industrial materials for cleanly structured lamps, tables, chairs, and other home furnishings. “All of my work is a blend of organic and industrial, but in a way that highlights inherent beauty of the natural materials,” he says, noting his frequent use of polished aluminum, brass, copper, carbon steel, and exotic woods like padauk. Another talent who breathes new life into antique furniture is pharmacist-turned-interiors virtuoso Jessica Pearson of J. Pearson Design. As high fashion runs through her veins, Pearson takes couture materials and designer fabrics (from the likes of Hermès, Gucci, and de Gournay) and lovingly reupholsters select vintage finds such as chairs, settees, ottomans, and corresponding accessories (pillows and serving trays), resulting in one-of-a-kind conversation starter pieces. With a SCAD MFA in Furniture Design, Katy Skelton keeps her roots firmly Savannahian and her eyes on the social justice aspect of manufacturing, using fair-trade practices and responsibly sourced materials for her line of furnishings, textiles, and decor. While her style evokes the best of modernism, her sensibility transcends minimalism with ornamental flourishes that flow out of the clean lines and strong forms of furniture like benches, cabinets, tables, chairs, and lighting.

An anchor of the Downtown Design District, Number Four Eleven is a monogram lover’s haven. Founders Courtland Stevens and Claire Lindley Reeve offer hundreds of vintage ciphers and fonts in every color and size imaginable, customizable to virtually everything in the store—from classic Italian herringbone throws and fringed linen cocktail napkins to boat bags and baby blankets. A visit inside The Paris Market (which feels a bit like a miniature version of New York City’s ABC Home) transforms the shopper into the traveler, with carefully chosen home goods like soap, hand towels, jewelry, kitchen items, and vintage wares sourced by globetrotting owner Paula Danyluk. Down the block at ShopSCAD, you’ll find hundreds of personal creations created by SCAD alumni, faculty and students including apparel, jewelry, decor, and gift items: Frida Kahlo wallpaper, an icosahedron hanging planter, and quirky yet functional bags by designer Shira Entis. Housed in historic Poetter Hall, the shop also sells fine art by emerging artists including Juan Sepulveda, Katrina Schmidt-Rinke, Marcus Kenney, and Dan VanLandingham.

Born-and-bred Savannahian Alex Raskin has filled all four floors of the splendidly decadent (and decidedly unrestored) Noble Hardee Mansion, which is worth visiting even if you don’t consider yourself a serious buyer. Classic pieces like elegant Sheraton armchairs stand side by side with folk art that wouldn’t be out of place in a Southern Gothic horror film, not to mention all the wildly eclectic andirons. Down the road, Jere’s Antiques is a browser’s paradise, with 400 to 600 pieces sourced from all over the U.K., Belgium, Holland, and France, arriving every two weeks by container from England. Of particular note is his vast selection of chairs housed in the attic of the 33,000-square-foot warehouse.

On the opposite end of the square footage spectrum is Peridot, a by-appointment-only treasure box helmed by the ever-traveling and ever-elusive Kevin Johnson. His discerning eye falls on the unexpected, from Tagliapietra Murano vases to a Biedermeier birch chest sourced from author Tom Clancy’s estate. He’s particularly drawn to “anything you can put an orchid in,” from mid-century pottery to a 500-pound Chinese brazier. For an unparalleled shopping experience in situ, catch lifelong collector Mimi Cay in between her international travels. She opens her sprawling waterfront estate on the Wilmington River to a select few, and virtually everything on display is for sale, from a set of bronze Doré two-arm sconces and a 19th-century American Empire rosewood slipper chair to a zebra-upholstered ottoman and supremely rare collection of taxidermy.

If time only permits one art stop, head to the Gainsboroughs and Hogarths at the SCAD Museum of Art, located in a beautifully rehabilitated and landmarked former railway depot rich in Civil War history. Visiting exhibitions from the likes of José Parlá and Carlos Cruz-Diez are always on point (don’t miss the latter’s riveting Chromosaturation experience in the grass courtyard), and you’ll want to devote ample time to the museum’s permanent collection of African-American art, including works by Romare Bearden and Jacob Lawrence’s Genesis Creation Sermon series. A short drive away at the Jepson Center in the Telfair Museum complex, small collections from such luminaries as Jasper Johns, Richard Avedon, and Frank Stella are showcased, as is the original ballyhooed Bird Girl statue from Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil.

With deep roots in Savannah, Susan Laney of Laney Contemporary knows that Southern art is way more than kitsch. Though the city’s premier art gallery lies on the outskirts of town, it’s well worth the drive to see SCAD graduates Ansley West Rivers’s spectral photographs and Menghan Qi’s disturbing mixed-media faceless portraits. Additionally, Laney exclusively represents iconic photographer Jack Leigh. If you’re in the market for works by up-and-coming fine artists, check out the Gutstein Gallery, a contemporary retail space that features local up-and-comers across sculpture, printmaking, painting, ceramics, and installation. For painting commissions, Jessica O’Neill’s abstract figurative face portraits (which are all the rage with the social set) evoke slight Picasso, Condo, and Klee feels with whimsical humor and underlying structures that are almost botanical. SCAD Art Sales also sells original works from the college’s extensive community.

Outside the more formal art environs, many indie artists hailing from the SCAD alumni and faculty web are raising antennae. Homegrown fiber specialist Pamela Wiley taught for 24 years at SCAD before retiring to Tybee Island where she continues to produce her elaborate high-art quilts. Inspired by her research into French vernacular textiles, she combines traditional techniques like handwork with technology-assisted sewing and digital printing to create original designs. Also on the fibers front, Kim “Pterodactyl” Folse uses the traditionally decorative medium of embroidery to “honor and document the absurdity of our evolving consumer culture.” The outsized emotions depicted in her paired sets like Winners and Losers, as well as her series on Televangelists, use expressionistic color and digital precision sewing techniques to comment cynically and humorously on various social content.

When chef Sean Brock—who some would say single-handedly put Charleston on the food map—confirms that his Husk operation is expanding into Savannah later this year, you know that the city’s dining scene is on the rise. “The time is right for what Brock does so well: putting an imaginative spin on local ingredients and traditional Southern dishes,” says local food writer Tim Rutherford. “I hope he can sustain the innovation and imagination that made Husk in Charleston such a darling of the critics and regular diners.” In the meantime, a handful of local chefs are gaining traction, including Italian-trained chef and fisherman Tony Seichrist of The Wyld. His alfresco, Insta-ready dining spot with panoramic marsh views is a favorite for top-notch surf and turf. Head over at dusk to watch the sunset, order the May River oysters (which come from right down the road), crab cakes, pork tacos, and sheepshead, a rich, flaky fish you won’t see outside of Southern Georgia. Rutherford also suggests sampling the porchetta sandwich, which he describes as, “the best I’ve had since hitting a roadside stand south of Siena.”

If you arrive on the early side at Atlantic, add your name to the wait list, grab an aperitivo on the patio, and squeeze in a game of Yahtzee, Connect Four, or Jenga predinner. The amiable Jason Restivo runs the front of house and Lauren Teague leads the kitchen with an eclectic, comfort-driven menu (both in price and taste) with items like Service Brewing beer pulled pork and ratatouille kebabs with goat cheese and herb polenta. “The trio of partners at Cotton & Rye developed mad skills working the Miami food and beverage scene and bring a cosmopolitan feel to the sleepy side of Savannah,” explains Rutherford. While the menu changes frequently due to produce availability, he recommends staying focused: “Without exception go for whatever pork dish, any pork dish, these guys are serving.” Their new sister Italian restaurant, Sugo Rossa, is stellar, as well.

After honing her chops at Prune in New York, chef Mashama Bailey helped open The Grey, housed in a stunningly rehabbed old bus station. In the restaurant’s front Diner Bar the menu is casual; order a charcuterie plate and smoked brisket sandwich on a house-made potato roll with pickled onion and while away the evening with their tried-and-true gin gimlet.

You’ll likely spot Back in the Day Bakery thanks to the long line of foodies jonesing for James Beard–nominated pastry chef Cheryl Day’s homemade biscuits before the store even opens. This is a popular lunch watering hole, with Day’s savory sandwich offerings—like the pimento cheese with apple-smoked bacon and make-your-own grilled cheese—complimenting the house-baked breads. You’ll also find a hefty lunch crowd at Zunzi’s, a South African–inspired takeout spot where Heilbrun goes for her fill of international cuisine when she misses New York. “I drag all of my foreign friends here when they’re in town,” she adds with gushing endorsement. Rutherford is also a huge fan of their boerewors, a homemade South African sausage served on French bread with gravy, onions, and mustard.

Barbecue is obligatory in the South, and the finest pit stop in Savannah is the downtown location of Sandfly BBQ, housed in a retrofitted 1938 Streamliner, brought down from Worcester, MA. Their Hog Wild platter allows you to sample the various meats on their menu—pulled pork, beef brisket, chicken, smoked chicken, sausage, and ribs. For your choice of sides, go with the decadent Mac Balls, macaroni and cheese rolled with bacon and fried in duck fat, then tossed in white truffle oil.

When it comes time for weekend brunch, legit coffee, and prime people-watching, nothing tops Australian-theme The Collins Quarter. They do, indeed, offer solid avocado toast, but biscuitheads (like Rutherford) should not miss the Biscuits Gone Wild—housemade buttermilk biscuits with chicken apple sausage, smoked bacon gravy, fennel apple slaw, and poached eggs.

Drinking is a favorite pastime in the South, and the chicest of chic spots to grab a nightcap is at cocktail bar Artillery. The city’s most talented mixologists have made this their home, and they’ve crafted a winning selection of novel cocktails, wines by the glass, and a namesake drink, the Artillery Punch. “Careful,” warns Rutherford, “the powerful combination of rum, brandy, rye whiskey, and sloe gin truly pack an explosive punch.”