If you've ever tried to read the back of an antiaging serum or lotion, you've likely seen a long list of polysyllabic chemicals and Latin-looking words, plus a handful of tiny logos that look like emojis for scientists. So how do you know which ones will do what you want? We got the lowdown from Elizabeth Arden consulting dermatologist Dendy Engelman and New Jersey–based cosmetic chemist Ni'Kita Wilson.
Look for Proven Ingredients
There are loads of anti-agers out there, so stick with ingredients that have been studied thoroughly and are proven to work. Here's a cheat sheet of the best ones to look out for. Keep in mind that companies are only required to list ingredients' scientific or Latin names, even though some will also add the common name in parentheses.
Retinoids: "The workhorse anti-ager is some kind of vitamin A derivative in the retinoid family," Engelman says. "They accelerate cell turnover to help with sun damage and fight fine lines." You might be familiar with this class of ingredients if you've ever gotten a prescription for tretinoin (aka Retin-A) for acne, because faster cell turnover can fight acne, too. Over-the-counter retinoids are available in lower potency and will start with "ret." Look for retinyl palmitate, retinol, and retinaldehyde.
Vitamin C: "If it has 'ascorb' in the name, it tends to be vitamin C," Wilson says of this antioxidant, which is known to brighten skin and reduce discoloration. Common ones are L-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, and sodium ascorbyl phosphate.
Idebenone: Like retinol and vitamin C, Idebenone, the star ingredient in Elizabeth Arden PREVAGE Anti-Aging Serum, is an antioxidant that targets the signs of skin damage caused by environmental assaults. A potent antioxidant, it helps reduce the appearance of fine lines, sun damage, and uneven skin tone.
Vitamin E: As an antioxidant, this vitamin is stellar at fighting free radical damage. It'll feature the prefix "toco" on ingredient lists (e.g., tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate).
AHAs: Wilson likes this family of exfoliators, as they help remove dead skin cells, correct past sun damage, and improve hydration. And they're usually named clearly: Lactic acid and glycolic acid are the top ones.
How the List Works
Now you know the names to look for, but "determining if there is enough of an ingredient can be difficult," Wilson says. Ingredient lists are organized from top to bottom by the amount of the ingredient that's in the formula—with the exception of anything below 1 percent, which may be listed at the end in any order the company would like, and color ingredients, which, no matter the amount, must be listed dead last in the list. (Even in lipsticks that are mostly pigment, the colors will be listed at the end.)
"There used to be a general rule that the first five ingredients compose most of the product, and for the most part I would say that's correct," Wilson says. "But that doesn't mean that if something is lower it's not as effective." Engelman agrees: "There are some things you wouldn't want too much of, like L-asorbic acid, which can be irritating." Some ingredients also have a synergistic effect that makes them more effective together rather than alone. For example, adding the exfoliating power of an AHA can help the other ingredients in the formula work faster and penetrate the skin more easily.
What's an Active Ingredient?
"When we're talking about 'active ingredients,' those are the ones that are highlighted and are essentially the reason you're buying a product," Engelman explains. You may see them touted on the front of the box or you may need to scout them out in the ingredient list. That said, some active ingredients jump up to a whole other level and are required to have drug labeling on them. You'll notice this with sunscreens and products that say they treat acne (the wording used to describe the active ingredients in both is regulated by the FDA).
Does Percentage Matter?
Ingredients that qualify as drugs are required to show a percentage, but some brands will also voluntarily list the percentage of the active ingredients they contain. For example, you might see 10 percent glycolic on peel pads or 20 percent vitamin C on a serum. "This is usually a good sign that they've added enough to the formula to live up to its scientifically researched skin care effect," Wilson says, but it's not a deal breaker if the figure isn't present. "If there's no percentage it doesn't mean it won't work; it just means it's not in their brand philosophy to call it out."
About Those Teeny Logos….
Look closely at the back of a bottle or box in the store and you may have noticed it's surrounded by a few random looking little symbols. While you likely recognize the ones for recycling right off the bat (that triangle of arrows), there are other clues about the product that can be detected. One example: the open jar with a number written inside. "The open jar means once you open it, this is how many months you have to use it up before you're recommended to toss it," explains Wilson. "This is different from an expiration date, which is either printed into the box, along the crimp of a tube, or located with a picture of a little timer. The expiration date means it has gone bad, whether you've opened it or not."
One rule of thumb that isn't printed in black and white: "No matter how quickly a product says you will see results, always give it at least four weeks to really show that it's working," Engelman advises.
