This Argentinian City Is Called the 'Paris of South America' but It's So Much More — How to Plan the Perfect Trip

Buenos Aires goes way deeper than its tired "Paris of South America'' cliché. Sure, it's got lively sidewalk cafés, a wealth of Belle Époque architecture, and grand leafy avenues leading to flowering urban parks. But Buenos Aires wouldn't be the dynamic capital city it is without the native Argentines and immigrant Portenos who call it home and make it distinctly Buenos Aires. 

“Buenos Aires’ architecture is a living testament to the blending of European and Latin American influences, creating a stunning urban landscape that never ceases to amaze. However, it's the people of Buenos Aires who truly set it apart. They are welcoming, vivacious, and have an infectious zest for life that is simply contagious,” Mery Calderón, the founder and CEO of Kuoda Travel, a luxury tour operator in South America, told Travel + Leisure.

In Buenos Aires, local passions run deep — whether it's for asado, tango, literature, art, or fashion. 

“From savoring delectable cuisine to immersing yourself in art, history, and exhilarating outdoor activities, Buenos Aires has it all. The delta, a hidden treasure accessible only by boat, holds a magical allure. And of course, the passionate heartbeat of the city is the tango, which pulses through its streets and venues,” said Calderón.

Paris could never.

Best Hotels and Resorts

Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires

The Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires does the chain proud. The luxury hotel is housed in a Belle Époque mansion surrounded by immaculate gardens and the only outdoor swimming pool in the neighborhood. Sophisticated suites feature stand-alone soaking bathtubs and glass chandeliers. The real action is down at the polo-inspired bar, Pony Line. Oh, and Madonna stays here.

Faena Hotel Buenos Aires

Faena Hotel Buenos Aires (or The Faena, as the locals call it) is the most distinct hotel in Buenos Aires. It is located in a converted warehouse, but thanks to top-line interior design by Phillippe Starck, known for his work on the Delano in South Beach and Mondrian in Los Angeles, it has everything you’d expect from a high-end hotel — and then some. Expect arabescato marble bathrooms and hand-embroidered throws in rooms that are punched up with red details. The art-centric property even has a giant crown sculpture in the middle of its chic outdoor pool.

Alvear Palace Hotel

The old-school luxury of the Alvear Palace Hotel has charmed presidents, Hollywood celebrities, and rock stars since the hotel opened in 1932, and thanks to some recent updates, it continues to wow anyone who has the pleasure of staying there. Expect Hermès bath products, Louis XVI furniture, and Buenos Aires' best views from the rooftop bar. Don't miss afternoon tea at L'Orangerie with monogrammed teacups and all the edible trimmings.

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Palacio Duhau - Park Hyatt Buenos Aires

This Neoclassical palace was built in 1934 as a private residence. It wasn’t open to the public until 2006 when it was brought back to life following a major $74 million renovation. "The hotel really captures the spirit of the city it's in in both historic and modern ways. Not only is the Palacio Duhau an actual historic palace with grand gardens and design, it's also home to a thriving art scene," said Elspeth Velten, T+L's general manager, who visited in October 2023.

Even after all the work, most of the original building’s details remain, including its distinctive red marble flooring. A second, newly constructed building added more rooms, suites, and amenities, including three restaurants, a bar, lush gardens, an expansive spa, and a private art collection.

"When I visited, a hundred or so hip Porteños celebrated an art opening in the hotel's underground gallery, which during the day also hosts the hotel's buzzing florist. Add a fantastic spa and an impressive plant-based restaurant (in addition to the hotel's more traditional steakhouse) and the Palacio Duhau makes the perfect complement to any time spent in this grand capital city," said Velten.

Home Hotel Buenos Aires

Ever imagined what it would be like to live like one of Argentina's coolest artists? Book a room at Home Hotel, a chic, boutique property set in a former private mansion. The vintage 20th-century decor includes Scandinavian design, vintage French wallpaper, and Eero Saarinen furnishings. The outdoor swimming pool is one of the city's best outdoor spaces, with jasmine and fruit trees providing smells and shade.

"During my springtime stay, I couldn't get enough of the hotel's blossoming grounds — we had breakfast outside, drank our coffee in the sun, and even sat poolside on a hot afternoon with a bottle of wine," said Velten. "The hotel's garden vibe extends throughout. Our room had a beautiful view of trailing vines on the building's facade. And every time I entered the mod-designed lobby, I truly did feel like I was coming off the street into someone's home."

Best Things to Do

Recoleta Cemetery

Visiting Buenos Aires and not paying homage to Eva Perón’s (Evita) grave in Recoleta Cemetery (Cementerio de la Recoleta) is sacrilegious. Evita aside, wandering through the above-ground tombs and religious symbols in this National Historic Landmark is a memorable experience.

Rojo Tango Show

OK, so a tango show is touristy. But the Rojo Tango Show inside the sexy Faena Hotel is touristy done right. It's intimate, and fun, and might inspire a tango lesson or trip to a local milonga. The entertainment is paired with a multi-course meal that includes braised Patagonian lamb and tres leches. Free drinks include Champagne and wine.

Caminito

Strolling down the historical and colorful Caminito (“little path,” in Spanish) is like visiting an outdoor art gallery. If tango dancers and bargain souvenirs hawkers frequented art galleries. Colorfully painted houses edge the walkway, which is busy with artists selling their wares and tango and folk dance performances.

Estadio Alberto J. Armando Stadium (La Bombonera)

If you're a soccer (fútbol) fan, then La Bombonera is a church. If you manage to visit during the fútbol season, you can catch a Boca Juniors match. If not, take a tour and visit the stadium’s dedicated museum, which showcases the club’s history and is located under the grandstand.

Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA)

If you have to pick one museum to see in Buenos Aires, MALBA is it. The modern building is known for its permanent collection of famed contemporary Latin American artists. Check out works by Frida Kahlo, Fernando Botero, and Antonio Berni. Talented curators also highlight local artists for seasonal exhibits.

Best Shopping

Galería Patio del Liceo

This shop-filled building brings designers and artists together in one of the hippest art and design spaces in Buenos Aires. The shops sell everything from basic clothing to vintage and one-of-a-kind artist-made finds. There’s a cute patio cafe for cafe chicos and an ongoing calendar of events and workshops that draw the city’s hip, artist crowd.

Gil Antiguedades

This labyrinth of a boutique has specialized in early- and mid-century vintage clothing and homewares since it opened shop in Buenos Aires in 1973. Gil Antiguedades is a collector’s dream, with everything from antique beaded necklaces and lace wedding gowns to rare vintage crystal and one-of-a-kind textiles.

Maydi

After years of working in the Paris fashion industry for brands like Golden Goose, Hermès, and Isabel Marant, María Abdala Zolezzi (nicknamed “Maydi”) returned to her native Argentina and launched her own label. Maydi is a sustainable, high-fashion knitwear label that uses native materials and dyes. The selection of knitwear — for both men and women — is wearable art at its best.

Fueguia 1833 Recoleta

This perfumery, also known as Fueguia 1833 Patagonia, is a true Argentinian sensory experience. The lovely melody of smell found at Fueguia 1833 was inspired by founder Julian Bedel's travels throughout Patagonia and is a tribute to the Indigenous communities of South America. Pro tip: the handcrafted candles make perfect gifts.

El Ateneo Grand Splendid

Buenos Aires has a serious literary scene. Celebrate it at El Ateneo Grand Splendid, a bookstore housed in a grand theater that was built in 1919. The enormous space is now packed floor-to-ceiling with books and ornate original fixtures. The former stage now houses a cafe.

Best Restaurants

Sarkis

Sarkis is a family-style Armenian restaurant that's the perfect place to start a night out. Small plates of succulent lamb, marinated eggplant, and flaky nut pastries arrive willy-nilly, adding to the eatery’s distinct charm. The wandering belly dancers and coffee ground readers are a good distraction between courses and real Armenian coffee will keep you awake until the discotheque closes. 

La Cocina de Casa Cavia

La Cocina restaurant is tucked inside Casa Cavia, a high-end retail and restaurant concept in Palermo. In keeping with the creative vibes, La Cocina has an incredibly diverse and artistic seasonal food and cocktail menu. The interior alone is reason enough to visit. Inspired by 1920s cafes, it features white marble, brass, and antique mirrors — while still staying fresh and airy. If you can't get a dinner reservation, a breakfast of dulce de leche baked goods is almost as good.

La Cabrera

There are lots of reasons why La Cabrera is considered to be one of the best steakhouses in the world — and great steak is just one of them. The asador (master griller) working a firebox filled with red-hot embers and racks of meat is another. And then there’s the fact that La Cabrera is overflowing with atmosphere. 

Calderón calls La Cabrera “a long-standing Argentinian steakhouse known for its perfectly seasoned rosemary-flavored steaks. Complemented by an array of delectable side dishes, La Cabrera has garnered a well-deserved reputation among Palermo residents.”

El Banco Rojo

Don't leave Buenos Aires without trying empanadas. Though hand-held street food is everywhere, finding empanadas with good dough texture and perfectly seasoned fillings can be a challenge. El Banco Rojo delivers both, along with a Buenos Aires-renowned menu of burgers and tacos. Pair your empanada of choice with a bottle of Rubia craft beer. This is a hip, counter-service spot with a picnic table and stool seating. 

Presidente Bar

If you want a glamorous night out in Recoleta, Presidente Bar is your spot. Every detail is carefully thought out, from the music and lighting to the staff — it's all on point. The glowing back-lit bar, high ceilings, and hanging chandelier evoke a classic era that adds to the bar’s old-world charm. The menu includes everything from calamari and empanadas to risotto and the Hamburguesa Presidente. 

Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit Buenos Aires is spring and fall — just remember that spring in the Southern Hemisphere falls between September and December and fall is between April and June. 

“Spring, without a doubt, is my favorite season in Buenos Aires,” confirmed Calderón. “As the city awakens from its slumber, it transforms into a lush oasis. The jacaranda trees burst into bloom, painting the streets with their enchanting violet blossoms, creating an atmosphere of pure magic. Spring gifts Buenos Aires the perfect weather — sunny days and the intoxicating scent of blossoms in the air.”

Spring and fall may offer visitors mild temperatures, blooms, and thinner crowds, but Buenos Aires is a lively metropolis with something to see and do all year round. 

The league fútbol season for the Primera División, the country's premier level, runs from late January until early August, and Argentina's La Triple Corona, a polo triple crown, runs from late September until early December. The city also hosts an international tango festival in mid-August.

Keep in mind that travel might be tricky during Semana Santa, the Holy Week of Easter when Argentina all but shuts down while residents travel to visit family and attend religious services. 

How to Get There

Buenos Aires is serviced by three airports: Ministro Pistarini International Airport, Ezeiza (EZE); Jorge Newbery Airport, known as Aeroparque (AEP); and El Palomar (EPA).

EZE is the biggest and most used airport, especially for travelers coming from the U.S., as there are plenty of direct flights between the U.S. and Buenos Aires. And from the EZE airport, it's around 20 miles (roughly 50 minutes) to the center of the city. 

The closest airport to central Buenos Aires is AEP, but most flights are to and from neighboring South American countries or other airports within Argentina. The same goes for EPA, which typically welcomes low-cost domestic flights.

Neighborhoods to Visit

Palermo

Palermo is top of the neighborhood-to-see list for most visitors. It has plenty of offerings that will make even the most Americanized visitor feel at home, and there are plenty of shady parks and tree-lined walking paths. According to Calderón, “Palermo buzzes with life, boasting an abundance of bars, restaurants, museums, parks, and picturesque streets to explore. It's where you'll find the pulse of the city.” 

Recoleta

This neighborhood has a high-end feel, with luxury hotels and glamorous bars, but it also acts as a cultural center for Buenos Aires, with ongoing concerts, art exhibitions, and popular local haunts. Calderón confirms that Recoleta “exudes elegance and offers a glimpse into Buenos Aires' architectural grandeur.”

Villa Crespo

If you’re looking for nightlife and a hip, up-and-coming vibe, Villa Crespo is your spot. This neighborhood, which surrounds a former shoe factory, has a great selection of cafes and bars.

San Telmo

This neighborhood is best known for its bohemian vibe, which is complemented with street murals and ongoing pop-up art galleries. The San Telmo Market, a large indoor market that opened in 1897 to serve the area’s immigrant populations, is a must.

La Boca

This colorful neighborhood is best known for its popular art walk, the aforementioned Caminito. But in reality, La Boca is an art mecca, with spaces like Usina del Arte, a cultural center located in an old power plant. If you want to avoid the tourist mayhem on Caminito, check out Calle Suarez or Pinzon.

How to Get Around

If you’re planning to stay in the city, there’s no need to rent a car. The city is walkable and there’s a great city-bike system, BA Ecobici, which has over 3,000 bicycles spread throughout the city.

Subway: Buenos Aires also has a dependable and well-used subway system called Subte. Six lines connect commercial, tourist, and residential areas throughout Buenos Aires, with trains running every three to 10 minutes, depending on the line. To travel by Subte (or bus) in Buenos Aires, you'll need to get a rechargeable SUBE card. For schedules, routes, and live updates, download the transpo app, BA Cómo Llego.

Train: For transportation with a tourist twist, Calderón recommends “Tren de la Costa, a picturesque train journey that takes you on a captivating ride through the charming suburbs of Buenos Aires, particularly in Zona Norte.”

Taxi: You’ll find over 40,000 licensed taxis and plenty of Ubers waiting to take you to your destination any time of day (or night). Calderón also recommends trying out Cabify, a Latin American rideshare app that operates in Buenos Aires.