Go Citybreak:The city best known for its bull run has lots to see all year round and there's no better way to explore it than to don walking shoes and hit the streets, says Francis Bradley
AFTER THE LAST bull has run, after the last, sad notes of Pobre de Mi(the song that signifies the end to all the revelry) evaporate in the air, what remains? There is a popular misconception that when the last light has been turned off on the world famous San Fermin festival, Pamplona shuts its doors and spends the next 12 months recovering.
In some respects it does, and a number of enthusiastic revellers from the festival may do the same. But, for the most part, this city moves on, and it moves on very quickly. It has to. Life must go on and the local council wastes no time in returning the city to a sense of normality.
The local population reflects this. Having endured, or rather enthusiastically participated in, other local fiestas in the lead-up to the San Fermin and then indulged in eight or nine days of round-the-clock festivities, locals may move around in a punch-drunk state, slowly returning to a gentle pace of life.
Pamplona, or in Basque Iruña, the principal city of Navarra, lies in the northern section of the province and has a population of about 200,000. It is in a bowl surrounded by mountains and is easy to get to by car or coach from Bilbao Airport in Spain or Biarritz Airport in France.
Additionally, Pamplona is one of the principal cities that lies on the Camino Francés route of the Camino de Santiago. The city is blessed with many green, open spaces and the most striking of these are within the remains of the 16th- century walls. It is possible to walk from the Media Luna park in the east of the old city to the Taconera Gardens in one hour.
Also, there is the Ciudadela, a magnificent military construction at the southern end of the old city, which is now one of the main leisure and cultural venues in Pamplona.
Outside the city walls there is the University of Navarra campus and the Yamaguchi Park, a large, green area which, as its name suggests, contains a variety of Japanese trees and shrubs. This park is also home to the Pamplona Planetarium, which has an assortment of programmes and exhibitions throughout the year and is well worth a visit.
Overall, the city is very compact and the visitor can comfortably conduct a tour on foot. Failing that, there is a very good bus service and taxis are inexpensive.
My advice, when on your first visit to any city, is to head straight to the tourist office, located here in the Plaza de San Francisco. After getting your bearings, maps, reference materials and so on, take a stroll up to the Plaza del Castillo.
This is the heart of the old city and is the stage for many cultural events in Pamplona. Its name comes from the medieval Castle of Navarreria, which was on this site, and an old coins and stamps market is held here every Saturday morning.
The plaza is surrounded by a selection of bars and cafes, the most famous of which is Café Iruña – worth a look, but more expensive to eat in than other places nearby. Located beside the plaza is the Palace of Navarra, which is now the seat of Government of the province. Guided tours are available but only by prior arrangement.
The Encierro (bull run) passes close to the Plaza del Castillo and the route makes for a pleasant stroll from Santo Domingo, near to where the bulls are released, past the magnificent, ornamental façade of the Ayuntamiento and into the long Calle Estafeta and Bajada de Javier to the finish at the Plaza de Toros which, with a capacity of 19,500, is home to the second largest bullring in Spain after Madrid. During San Fermin there is a bullfight here every afternoon.
For anyone with an interest in ecclesiastical architecture, Pamplona and its environs offer an abundant choice of interesting destinations: the 12th century Church of San Nicolas, the 15th century Cathedral of Saint Mary and the Church of San Cernin are a few examples within the city.
Surrounding Pamplona there are countless hilltop ermitas (hermitages) and other sites. These include Olite, with its magnificent restored castle to the south, Sos del Rey Católico, a walled fortress village, and Castillo de Javier, the birthplace of St Francis Xavier to the east, Roncesvalles on the Camino Francés to the north, and to the west the Sanctuario de San Miguel de Aralar – a route which finishes at a stunning, elevated location.
The city’s main shopping area lies astride the Avenida Baja Navarra, with some quite expensive stores along Avenida Carlos III. However, El Corte Inglés, a large department store, will give you a complete shopping experience over seven floors.
You should never go hungry in any Spanish city and Pamplona is no different. If you fancy a snack , be it tapas, pinchos and raciones, you are spoiled for choice in the old city, particularly around Bajada de Javier.
Often, these hostelries will also offer a substantial lunch or dinner. Pushing yourself upmarket, the hotels offer excellent cuisine.
For a fantastic overview of Pamplona take a drive or a bus to Artica, a small village on the northern side of the Ronda Norte. Artica lies at the foot of San Cristóbal, which has an extensive fort and moat built into the summit.
Constructed at the end of the 19th century, most of the fort now lies in ruins but the ministry of defence still owns the facility and access is restricted.
You can get to the summit by car (go carefully) or on foot (a very pleasant, although continuously uphill walk) but the effort is worth it and the views are excellent.
And finally, for chocoholics, a not-to-miss experience is Pastleria Beatriz on Calle Estafeta in the old city. This shop is famous for its chocolate pastries, so you too can join the locals and Camino pilgrims as they queue patiently for their very own little piece of choccy heaven.
- turismo.navarra.es
Where to stay, where to eat and where to go
5 places to stay
Hotel Tres Reyes. Jardines de la Taconera, 00-34-948-226600, hotel3reyes.com. A four-star hotel in central Pamplona. Eating here is expensive, but you are surrounded by alternative choices. Rooms start at €85 a night.
Castillo de Gorraiz Hotel. Avenida de Egues 78, 00-34-948-337722, cghotel.es Magnificently located four-star boutique hotel only minutes from the centre of the city. Great amenities, including pool and spa. Rooms from €115 a night, including breakfast.
NH El Toro. Carretera de Guipúzcoa, Berrioplano, 0034-948-302211, nh-hotels.com Three star hotel 5km from the city centre. Quiet, country location. Well equipped rooms, gym and sauna. Rooms from €50 a night.
Hotel Suites Mendebaldea. Irunlarrea 6, 00-34-948-179300, sercotelhoteles.com Three-star hotel suites close to Yamaguchi Park and 10 minutes from the centre of Pamplona. Suites from €140 a night for two bedrooms, living/dining room, kitchen, telephone, satellite TV and terrace.
Hostel Hemingway. Amaia 26, 00-34-948-983884, hostelhemingway.com Budget accommodation in the centre of the old city. Three minutes' walk from the bullring and the Plaza del Castillo. Common room, TV, free Wi-Fi and kitchen. Rates from €19-€21 per person a night with breakfast. €15 discount for pilgrims.
5 places to eat
Hotel Restaurante Europa. Calle Espoz y Mina 11, 00-34-948-221800, hreuropa.com Regarded as one of the best restaurants in Pamplona for typical local dishes. From acorn-fed gran reserva joselito ham, to red tuna tataki and suckling pig. Average price for dinner without wine €55-€60.
Bar La Granja. Estafeta 71, 00-34-948-228353. Excellent selection of pinchos and tapas, including courgette with sea spider or veal sirloin with foie gras in port wine sauce, mixed platters and salads. Good atmosphere at weekends. Average price of pinchos and tapas €1.70-€3.
Alhambra. Calle Bergamín 7, 00-34-948-245007. Has local wines and regional specialities such as lobster salad with a light truffle and chervil vinaigrette dressing for starters and monkfish with tantalising spices or grilled fillet steak with truffles and a port-wine sauce as main courses. Fixed price menu €45.
Sarasate. Calle San Nicolás 19, 00-34-948-225727. Vegetarian restaurant favoured by students. It serves delicious vegetable platters including vegan and gluten-free choices. Mainly a lunch venue but dinner is served two nights a week. Fixed price lunch €12, dinner €18.
El Caballo Blanco. Calle Redin, 00-34-948-211504. For pinchos and tapas, this bar is enviably located along the Roman walls past the cathedral and behind Plaza San Jose. They have live music sessions here and serve lovely tostadas: toasted bread with various toppings (€5) or salads (€5.50-€7). Views over the ramparts make the garden the place to be.
5 places to go
Museo de Navarra. Santa Domingo 47, 00-34-848-426492. The museum is housed in the old Our Lady of Mercy Hospital on the edge of the old city next to the city walls. Artefacts exhibited here are a sample of Navarra's heritage from prehistory to present times.
The Ciudadelaand the
Vuelta del Castillo. The area covers 280,000sq m and is a marvellous public amenity with several contemporary sculptures on display. Many of the old military buildings in the Ciudadela have been converted for exhibition use.
San Cristóbal. The mountain is on the northern edge of Pamplona and offers excellent views over the city and surrounding countryside. The fortress at the top has an interesting, if brief, history. It is a favoured test for local walkers, joggers and mountain bikers. Accessible by car or by bus to Artica at its base.
Church of San Cernin. This 13th-century church was also designed as a defensive fortress, which is evidenced by its two high towers and its thick walls. Its unremarkable exterior hides a beautiful, spacious church. You will see the pocico (little well) in which San Fermin, the city's first bishop, was baptised.
Sos del Rey Católico. A beautiful, medieval town, 58km southeast of Pamplona. It was the birthplace of King Ferdinand II in 1452. To mark the occasion, the town took the name Sos del Rey Católico.
Hot spot
Calle de Jarauta. Attracts lots of young revellers in the early evening. The bars here really liven up later on.
Shop spot
El Corte Inglés. Estella 9, 00-34-848-202000. All your shopping needs under one roof.
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