Like many designers, Ulla Johnson gets her greatest inspiration from going someplace she’s never been. So last spring, she made a long-overdue pilgrimage to Morocco: a place that, with its rich tradition of artisanry and inimitable aesthetic, has served as muse for everyone from Yves Saint Laurent to the Beatles. She had only four days (Johnson has three children under the age of nine, whom she left back home in New York with their father), but even that—especially with the right intel from friends—was enough to upend how she saw color, texture, and pattern. “The light, the tilework designs,” she marvels. “It was like nothing I’d seen before.” Her enthusiasm reminds us both of the singular thrill of seeing a long-dreamed-about place for the first time... and of the fact that a vacation needn’t be two weeks long to change your perspective.
Where I stayed...
MARRAKECH
I was in the center of town at the Riad El Fenn. Many people I know who’ve been to Marrakech recommended it, for good reason: It’s intimate, peaceful, and gorgeous, with polished plaster walls in ocher and bright pinks, vintage tiles, carved cedar ceilings, and chic landscaped pools. And unlike many hotels, which are outside town and require a taxi to go anywhere, it’s within walking distance of Jemaa el Fna Square, the souks, and pretty little cafés and gardens (Bab El Ksour; 212-5244-41210; doubles from $245).
OURIKA
After Marrakech, I headed to Kasbah Bab Ourika, a half hour south of the city. It’s one of the most beautiful spots I’ve been: verdant hills of olive and lemon trees and terraced gardens where the hotel grows its own organic produce, all set against a backdrop of the Atlas Mountains. And where El Fenn is super-bright, with mixed patterns and tilework, Bab Ourika is more about tones and textures—gorgeous browns and creams and rough-hewn leather and rope (Tnine Ourika; 212-6687-49547; doubles from $184).
What I ate...
Everyone told me to go to one of the city’s over-the-top restaurants like Le Tobsil or Dar Yacout. And while they’re undeniably romantic (they must have a special budget for the rose petals alone), I had the best meals of my trip in the souk. The entire southern end of Jemaa el Fna is dense with stalls selling grilled goat, lamb, and beef, r’ghaif (flatbread), and tomato salad. It doesn’t really matter which you go to— they’re all simple and delicious. Keep an eye out for stalls selling snail soup: I kid you not, it blew my mind, it was so spicy and earthy. And don’t leave without an orange juice from one of the many vendors—refreshing and just tart enough.
Where I shopped...
The main souk is fun and lively, but for vintage rugs and jewelry, leave the market. Amazonite, just outside the town center, has beautiful textiles, silver jewelry, and silk tassel belts (94 blvd. El Mansour Eddahbi). Babouche slipper stores are everywhere, but for a custom pair go to Benzarrou Jaafar: You choose the color and they make them on the spot (El Hannaa Souk). One of my favorite shops, Maison de la Photographie, has a beautiful selection of vintage photos, books, and postcards (46 rue Souk Ahl Fes). To see what’s going on with local fashion, check out 33 Rue Majorelle—a concept store featuring pieces by Moroccan designers (33 rue Yves Saint Laurent). Art du Luminaire, on the road to Ourika, has museum-quality antique textiles, jewelry, and carpets. I bought a white wool wedding cape embroidered with tribal motifs—it’s a work of art (Centre Asni, Km 48 de Marrakech).
