When in Lisbon, Look Down (And Up)

Portugal's history of intricate tilework—from its ceilings to floors, homes and hallways—means you can't walk down a street in Lisbon without spotting something beautiful.

By Lilit Marcus

August 22, 2015

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Many design lovers begin their exploration of Lisbon's famous tiles at the National Tile Museum (pictured), which is housed in a converted 16th-century monastery.
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The tiles you'll see throughout Lisbon and the rest of Portugal are called azulejos, painted ceramic glazed with tin.

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Beyond the museum is a veritable walking tour of gorgeous tile. Start in Alfama, the oldest neighborhood in the city. Down narrow streets like this one, you'll see a mix of artistry and wild color.
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While some azulejos are simply bright sworls or pretty patterns, it's not uncommon to see tile depictions of famous people or events. This one, in Alfama, depicts Amália Rodrigues, the face of traditional Portuguese fado music. She is credited with bringing fado to the rest of the world and is still considered a legend in her native country.

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The city has a strong Moorish influence—the word "azulejo" comes from the Arabic "zellige," which means "tile," although Moorish tile was usually made from terra cotta. The geometric designs from Islamic art were hugely influential as well.
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Although there aren't official rules governing the colors of tiles, blue (azul, the first half of azulejos) seems to be the most popular choice in Lisbon.

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As Portugal became heavily influenced by Christianity, the azulejos still remained. Here, the tiles are used to depict Biblical scenes at the Nossa Senhora da Piedade (Our Lady of Mercy) church in Lisbon.
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Although tile is popular on walls, that's not the only place you'll find it. There's often elegant tilework on the ceilings and floor, too.

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The exteriors of Casa Ferreira, a house once inhabited by a famous tablet-maker, reportedly have Masonic meanings embedded throughout.
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Quinta dos Azulejos was a private garden built in the 18th century that now belongs to a school. There's a lot of trompe l'oeil here, with tiles resembling architectural elements such as columns, archways, and cornices.

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Just outside of Lisbon in the town of Sintra, where the kings and queens of Portugal once had their summer estates, is the Palace of Queluz and its eclectic, multicolored tiles.
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Following the Portuguese financial crisis in the early 2000s, there was an upswing in reports of tiles being stolen from homes and public places, then selling them to collectors or museums. A police program called "S.O.S Azulejo" tried to discourage people the practice and asked people to return stolen tiles to the authorities.

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Portuguese tilework has inspired artists for generations. Recently, photographer André Vincent Gonçalves, who is from Évora but lives in Lisbon, began taking pictures of some of the most striking ones he walked past. That project, "Windows of the World," went viral.