Crop rotation is one of the oldest and most effective strategies for organic pest control and maintaining healthy soil in your garden. Specifically, it means the planned order of vegetables or fruits in garden beds; avoiding planting the same crop (and the same family of crops) in the same space for a two or three year period; and knowing what family your edibles belong to.
The rules of crop rotation apply to plants in the same family, like tomatoes and potatoes, as plant families are usually susceptible to the same pests and diseases (unless a particular variety has been bred for resistance).
Many new gardeners become discouraged in the first few seasons when they make the mistake of planting tomatoes or lettuce or potatoes or corn in the same garden beds year after year. They can’t understand why those hornworms, caterpillars, tomato blight, and powdery mildew keep ravaging their veggies. Where the same vegetables or fruits (or families of) are grown in the same patch of soil successively, soil depletion and pest infestation usually follow.
Crop rotation helps to avoid disease
Growing the same crop in the same spot year after year is called Monoculture. Wherever monoculture exists, pests and diseases concentrate their efforts (it’s why Big Ag farmers have to use heavy applications of pesticides and fertilizers). If Verticillium Wilt infects your tomatoes this year, and you plant tomatoes in the same bed next year, the previous season’s soil-borne Verticillium will quickly have its way with your tomatoes and will produce even more fungi in the process. But if a crop resistant to Verticillium follows the tomatoes – like broccoli or mustard, which doesn’t mind verticillium at all – the fungi diminish.
The same idea holds true for diseases such as tomato blight. If your tomatoes were infected with blight last year, fungal spores from the blight most likely overwintered in your soil. Planting tomatoes the following year in the garden bed furthest from the blight infested bed will minimize the chances that your tomatoes will pick up the disease again.
Crop rotation controls insect pests
Many soil dwelling insects are fairly immobile. Take wireworms for instance. They love to feast on sweet potatoes and carrots. If you plant those edibles in the same raised bed every year, wireworms will build up in the soil and in a few seasons you’ll have a terrible infestation on your hands. But if you follow carrots or sweet potatoes with a non-root vegetable like lettuce or spinach, the wireworms will lose their food source and will be incapable of multiplying. Similarly, if aphids infest your broccoli, planting that crop again or any cole crop like brussels sprout or cabbage in the same bed the following year is just asking for double the infestation.
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Crop rotation avoids depleting soil nutrients
Crop rotation has additional benefits. Yields decline if the same vegetables are grown in the same garden beds year after year due to soil nutrient depletion. Additionally, roots that plunge to different depths each year keep the soil food web active; legumes stimulate beneficial soil microorganisms, and big, leafy greens are excellent at suppressing weeds.
Every plant requires unique amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium (N-P-K) and trace minerals. When the same plant makes repeated demands of the same patch of soil, the elements it requires become depleted and may take years to replace. For this reason, use a soil test for monitoring levels of N-P-K and composting in between crops is recommended for soil health.
If your garden is small, perhaps just one raised bed, you can still practice crop rotation. If you can’t live without tomatoes every summer, grow tomatoes in containers on the porch for one or two seasons and give your garden bed over to lettuce or beans.
One rule of thumb: you can plant peas and beans before or after anything – these legumes harvest nitrogen from the air and return it to the soil, unlike any other family of plants. After harvest, work bean and pea vines into the soil to add organic matter and nitrogen or add the vines to your compost pile.
See more info on crop rotation in gardens from the University of Wisconsin.
3-Year Crop Rotation Plan for Vegetable Gardens
If you have three or more garden beds, assign each plant family below a letter: one group to A, one to B, one to C. Grow plants from the same family together.
- 3-year, 3-bed crop rotation plan:
- 1st year: Bed 1: Family A Â Bed 2: Family B Â Bed 3: Family C
- 2nd year: Bed 1: Family B Â Bed 2: Family C Â Bed 3: Family A
- 3rd year: Bed 1: Family C Â Bed 2: Family A Â Bed 3: Family B
Vegetable Garden Plant Families for Crop Rotation
| Plant Family | Vegetables | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Bindweed Family (Convolvulaceae) | Sweet Potato | Not related to potato, so may precede or follow nightshade family |
| Carrot Family (Apiaceae) | Carrots, celery, parsnips, parsley, dill, chervil, fennel, coriander, cumin | Some members of this family are annual, biennial, or perennial - plan accordingly. |
| Goosefoot Family (Chenopodiaceae) | Spinach, beets, sugar beets, chard, quinoa | Very few insect or disease problems. Many can be harvested when young. Most prefer cool weather, so plan early season or late season harvest. |
| Gourd Family (Cucurbitaceae) | Cucumbers, musk melons, watermelon, squash, pumpkin, gourds | Most are annual vines and sensitive to frost. Very susceptible to pests and fungal infections, so practice strict cultural controls. |
| Grass family (Poaceae) | Corn, oats, rice, wheat, rye | Heavy feeders, require lots of nitrogen. Do not precede or follow with Nightshade family or Mustard family. |
| Mallow Family (Malvaceae) | Okra | Plant with Nightshade family. |
| Mustard Family (Brassicaceae) | Broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, rutabagas, kohlrabi, mustard greens, turnips, radish, watercress, Chinese cabbage, collards | Heavy feeders - work lots of organic matter into soil before planting and after harvest. |
| Nightshade Family (Solanaceae) | Tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, potatoes | Very heavy feeders and susceptible to many pests - work plenty of organic matter into the soil before planting and after harvest. |
| Onions Family (Alliaceae) | Onions, Garlic, Leeks, Shallots, Chives | Light feeders, best to follow Nightshade, Mustard, or Grass Family. |
| Pea Family (Fabaceae) | Beans, Peas, Jicama, Peanuts | The restoration family - use these legumes to add nitrogen before and after heavy feeders in nightshade family, mustard family, and corn. |
| Sunflower family (Asteraceae) | Sunflowers, lettuce, endive, salsify, Jerusalem artichoke | Heavy feeders - follow with pea family. |
If I’m straw bale gardening is it still necessary to rotate.
Yes. Straw bales are just a container. Disease and pests are persistent in soil.
i have a question i 5 yellow squash plants and 5 zucchini plants as well and have been doing well and they are big and been blooming. My question is it was really windy yesterday and they got blown around some but they are big plants and i was wondering if they will bounce back and stand up straight on there own or should i try to stake them or give them support thank you
Ryan: anything in the squash family is pretty tough. You probably won’t need to provide any support unless they’ve been damaged in some way. Take a look at the roots, stems, and leaves to see if anything got damaged – sometimes the plants can get pulled up by high wind, exposing the roots and of course, stems get broken. Prune off anything that’s damaged, make sure the roots are below soil surface and give them a few days to bounce back.